95 Points - David Schildknecht
Prominent lemony brightness and underlying alkalinity do not convey an immediate impression of such a ripe, sunny vintage as this was. Aromatically alluring sea breeze, fennel pollen, and green and black tea persist in the mouth, where this wine also grabs hold of the palate and salivary glands in an outpouring of lemon-drenched oyster liquor. The combination of polish and clarity on display is similarly striking, though by no means unusual in an installment of what is in effect the Nikolaihof’s iconic offering. The long, vibrant finish displays kaleidoscopic flavor interactions no less memorable or mesmerizing for their being nuanced and understated; nor is there any let-up in the onrush of marine salinity.
