A Taste of
The Vinorium

Issue: 82 / Sunday 8 September, 2019

Orin Swift Sale

Listen to our exclusive 10 minute audio interview with Orin Swift winemaker Dave Phinney.

(Please note this video will open in a new window)

A very special offering

Orin Swift 8 Years in the Desert 2016
collectors presentation box 

8 bottle presentation box containing '8 Years in the Desert 2016'
each with a limited edition label.

- Only 3 presentation boxes available -

Dave Phinney (Winemaker) - It’s hard to believe that this fall will be my twenty first harvest in the Napa Valley. Some of those vintages I remember fondly, others I’d like to forget. What may be harder to believe is that this harvest also marks the twentieth year that Orin Swift has been in business. Twenty years. It makes me feel old. But I love it, maybe now more than ever. As many of you know, the first commercial wine I made for Orin Swift was Zinfandel. But none of you have ever tried it. None of you have tried it because it was never bottled. I sold it on the bulk market. I would argue that Zinfandel may be the most difficult varietal to tame. But when you get it right it rewards you like no other. If winemaking is a series of challenges Zinfandel has them all in spades. So, in 2009 I took a break from Zinfandel and its challenges. It would end up being an eight-year break. Eight years in the desert. It was never if but when would we make Zinfandel again. That when is now.

So, with no further ado, we proudly give you 8 Years in the Desert. A blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Syrah and small percentages of other red varietals. 

Lisa Perrotti-Brown "Dark garnet with a lucid rim, the wine exhibits aromas of briar fruit, ripe blackberry and dark plum with a tinge of minerality and charred meat. Brawny on the entry, it has an equally big mid-palate with complex flavors of ripe brambly fruit, a touch of earth and notes of espresso bean. Still massive through to the finish with soft drying tannins, the unique varietal characteristics of the blend clearly reveal
themselves over time."

Was £630.00 per case In Bond

Now £585.00 per case In Bond

Also available by the bottle

Orin Swift 8 Years in the Desert 2017

Was £41.95 per bottle

Now £35.50 per bottle

Orin Swift Machete California Red Wine 2016

Violet ink in the glass, a nose of black plums, cassis, and cacao engage. The robust entry consists of a progressing palate of blackberry and boysenberry compote, a reduction of dark plum and ripe figs, and pure Amarena cherry. Flashes of vanilla and traces of minerality evolve into chalky tannins and a smooth lingering finish.

Dave Phinney (Winemaker)

The Label 

I was driving home from San Francisco, probably going too fast, and I saw what I thought was a cop ahead of me. Then I realised it was an old police car that had been resold. As I pulled alongside it, there was this postal worker with his arm hanging out the window, smoking a cigarette. On the side of the car, someone had keyed the word "KILLERS." I thought that's pretty graphic and cool. We did the photo shoot at the dumps in Calistoga because it's like a moonscape out there. We were going to key "MACHETE" onto the side of the car and have the model behind the wheel, holding a machete out the window, but I quickly realized that wasn't going to work. We shot for two days and had about 10,000 shots. We ended up doing a series of 12 different labels, and you'll notice that the model is always around the same size or high up in the frame. She's always in a position of power. That was most important to me.

The Wine 

It's always been a goal to showcase Petite Sirah in a dynamic blend, so we searched for the right vineyard throughout Northern California to give us a matrix that creates layers and depth. Machete blends Petite Sirah with Syrah and Grenache, and the result is a wine that has the attitude to go with 12 individual labels.

Was £45.55 per bottle

Now £41.95 per bottle

Orin Swift Slander California Pinot Noir 2016

Bright ruby in the glass, the aromatics concentrate—cherries, raspberries, dried rose petals, a touch of sweet oak and a hint of forest floor. The entry is silky with a classic Pinot Noir palate: loads of ripe red fruit, savory undertones and a principled backbone of acidity. Balanced, lean and complex, the wine finishes softly at length.

Dave Phinney (Winemaker)

The Wine

In the third vintage of Slander, we were on the receiving end of a beautiful harvest , especially for Pinot. Similar to previous vintages, this blend is primarily a mélange of hill side Santa Rita Hills fruit. This year also included a new source of Pinot — our first foray to the William Wesley vineyard in Annapolis on the Sonoma Coast—which turned out to be one of the best lots of Pinot we’ve ever had. At the end of trials, Dave picked up a glass and said , “Now this is the type of Pinot I want to drink.” Do you agree?

Winemakers Notes

Bright ruby in the glass, the aromatics concentrate —cherries, raspberries, dried rose petals, a touch of sweet oak and a hint of forest floor. The entry is silky with a classic Pinot Noir palate: loads of ripe red fruit, savory under tones and a principled backbone of acidity. Balanced, lean and complex, the wine finishes softly at length.

Was £45.55 per bottle

Now £41.95 per bottle

Orin Swift Abstract California Red Wine 2016

17 Points - Richard Hemming (JancisRobinson.com)"Wonderfully rich nose with black cherry, tea leaves, dried herbs and liquorice. Packs a serious punch but the aromatic complexity matches the structural intensity. Rich, ripe and potent."

Dave Phinney (Winemaker)
 

The Label

The Label I travel internationally and spend a lot of time in airports, so I'll buy about 10 magazines from whatever country I'm in. For Abstract, I was inspired by a photo of a collage that an Italian designer had tacked up in his living room, and for the next three years, I spent time on planes ripping out images from magazines--just things I liked. When I had enough great images, I pieced them together. It was not easy at all. It took about two weeks. I would come into the office at night, working on a big table. After the third day, we closed off that part of the office for fear that someone would open a door and a gust would blow everything apart. Every night I'd take a picture as a safety measure. When it was done, we got on a big ladder and shot it. That was the only easy part. 

The Wine 

I like the complexity we get by using fruits from different geographical locations. Abstract is a Grenache-based blend with Syrah and Petit Sirah and it represents all of California - all of the pieces, climates and features that tell a story of the state. I start with over 100 different lots of wine, searching for the right components of the blend. Individually, they're good wines, but together, they tell a full, complex story, like a collage.

Was £33.95 per bottle

Now £31.95 per bottle

Orin Swift Blank Stare Sauvignon Blanc 2017

Dave Phinney (Winemaker)

The Wine 

Pale yellow with a chartreuse tint, the wine opens with bright aromatics of lime zest, lemon, green apple and a touch of honey. The entry is refreshing with ripe pineapple and grapefruit, framed by a nervy backbone of satiating acidity. A mid-palate of white peach and a hint of pith melds seamlessly into a long, energetic finish of wet stone and key lime.

The 2016 Blank Stare was our first venture into the cooler Russian River Valley to make a different expression of Sauvignon Blanc from its Napa Valley sister, Veladora. For 2017, we wanted to continue crafting a wine with livelier acidity and a distinctive minerality —akin to old world Sauvignon Blancs — while still retaining our signature style. Sourced mainly from hand picked blocks in the Laguna Ranch and Mac Murray Ranch vineyards, this vintage is truly representative of its locale.

 Pale yellow with a chartreuse tint, the wine opens with bright aromatics of lime zest, lemon, green apple and a touch of honey. The entry is refreshing with ripe pineapple and grapefruit, framed by a nervy back bone of satiating acidity. Amid - palate of white peach and a hint of pith melds seamlessly into a long, energetic finish of wet stone and key lime.

Was £31.95 per bottle

Now £29.50 per bottle

Orin Swift Palermo Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Lisa Perrotti-Brown (RobertParker.com) "Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, the 2015 Palermo Cabernet Sauvignon (mainly Cabernet Sauvignon with splashes of Merlot and Malbec) opens with notions of crushed red currants, blackberries and mulberries with touches of Indian spices, sandalwood and menthol. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has a wonderfully spicy undercurrent with loads of red and black fruits and a chewy frame, finishing long and perfumed. 24,000 cases produced."

Dave Phinney (Winemaker)

The Label

I was looking through National Geographic and I found this photo by Vincent Musi. He's been a regular contributor to them forever. It's a shot of a kind of mummified priest in a 16th-century catacomb in Palermo, Sicily. There is such a sense of power and dignity and reverence to the image, and I thought that's kind of how we think about great Cabernet - that we just really respect it. I think it makes a statement about the wine, which I like to call, "Separate among equals."

The Wine

I'm proud that some of the same wine that goes into Mercury Head and Papillon goes into Palermo. They are not "kick-outs," we just have more that we need. Palmero could be considered our most approachable Cabernet and it's a true representation of Napa. It changes every year, but I get the great fruit from all over, usually Rutherford, Saint Helena, Atlas Peak, Coombsville and other places, too.

Was £45.55 per bottle

Now £40.95 per bottle

A Spotlight on New Zealand: 
A country of purity, strength
& definition.

We are delighted to present our second vintage as exclusive agents to Devotus from husband-and-wife team, Don & Valerie, who meticulously work a small vineyard (a mere 2 hectares) of old Pinot Noir vines planted originally by Neil McCallum of Dry River and situated directly next-door to the famed Martinborough winery.

When we asked Don, 'Why Pinot Noir?' he replied "Pinot Noir is a high risk grape. Give it only average attention in the vineyard and you will be totally punished as a winemaker. The wine will be boring and mediocre. It does however respond wonderfully to the right treatment. Valerie, my wife, felt the same way, so we decided to go 100% with this grape with a totally all-or-nothing approach in the vineyard. It really is a situation where if you want the most reward, then you have to take the most risk. We could have grown a much easier white grape variety in our vineyard like most other NZ vineyards, yet that would have been a pretty boring, safe and rational decision.". 

Their tireless attitude towards their work is one which continues to impress us massively. Don’s unrelenting dedication to the highest level of viticulture shows a level of commitment to their passion that speaks in volumes through their wines, as well as the painstaking attention to detail including individual labelling and numbering each bottle, all done by their own hands.

We are chuffed to represent the entire range of Devotus, including the new introduction, Aprentis of Devotus, which sees its first ever premiere outside of New Zealand. Aprentis is sourced from the younger parts of Devotus’ single estate vineyard, where the vines range between 6 to 19 year old. Don & Valerie did a great job separating these vines creating its own unique style. They have called the final wine the ‘Aprentis’, as in the future the fruit from these vines will become a part of the Devotus blend. Until that day, we have much to enjoy in the little sibling.

Previously, the super-limited ‘Reserve’ was tied to their estate wine however, we are now able to offer all wines ‘untied’. Additionally, and for a limited time only, we have reduced the 2018 ‘Reserve’ price as we are keen for you to appreciate one of New Zealand’s greatest Pinot Noirs.

Devotus

Martinborough, North Island

Aprentis of Devotus Pinot Noir 2018

Deep ruby red colour with depth, lighter on the edge. On the nose this wine entices with aromas of dark fruit (plums) and red floral notes. There are layers of aromatics consisting of earth, spice and dark cherry. Medium-full bodied, the palate has a core of rich, sweet and luscious red fruit flavours. There are dark herbs, a fine-grained tannin structure with balanced, refreshing acidity. Overall style is one of low intervention, a pure expression of the 2018 vintage, of the Martinborough Terrace, and particularly of the vineyard.

£28.95 per bottle

Devotus Pinot Noir 2018

Very deep ruby-red colour, a little lighter on the rim. The nose has interwoven aromas of dark-red berry fruits, cherries and plums, along with fresh herbs, ripe whole bunch stems, and spice. Medium-full bodied, the palate is big, with dense ripe red fruit, savoury whole bunch stems, dark herbs, with some spice and earth. Persistent tannins provide structure to balance the mid palate weight. Overall style is one of low intervention, a pure expression of the 2018 vintage, of the Martinborough Terrace, and particularly of the vineyard. 

£36.95 per bottle

Devotus Reserve Pinot Noir 2018

Visually very dark ruby-red colour. The nose is proportioned with aromas of red cherry and concentrated dark-red berry with savoury notes of whole bunch stalk, earth, and dark herbs. Medium-full bodied, the palate is concentrated, with a dense core of dark red fruits (ripe plums and dark cherries) and herbs. There is a firm structure, with fine-grained tannins, balanced with fresh acidity.

£53.50 per bottle

Valli

Central Otago, South Island

We are delighted to introduce our newest agency, Valli, from the beautiful Otago region of New Zealand. Established in 1998, Grant Taylor launched his Valli label with the aim of creating true representations of Otago’s sub-regions with unflinching intensity and purity. Gibbston was planted first followed by Bannockburn, Waitaki Valley and Bendigo. Tasting the wines is a true lesson in exploring Otago’s regionality and terroir, not too dissimilar to a Burgundian exercise.

Gibbston Vineyard

Valli’s estate vineyard in Gibbston is the first vineyard in the valley to be planted in the true north-to-south direction. This maximises the amount of sunlight hours the vines receive, contributing dramatically to the uniform ripening of fruit, a critical factor in Pinot Noir quality. The vineyard soils are mainly schist derived, windblown alluvial loess. Gibbston, one of the coolest sub regions of Otago, has one of the slowest ripening seasons. A key factor in quality Pinot Noir from such a cool area is long hang time, that is the amount of time the grapes are on the vine; this allows them to develop elegance and complexity of flavour. Sometimes the Gibbston Vineyard is not picked until early May.

Valli Vineyards Gibbston Pinot Noir 2017

97 Points - Sam Kim (Wine Orbit) "A profound pinot; the captivating bouquet shows dark cherry, blueberry, violet, cedar and game characters with a hint of dried herb note. The palate is concentrated and weighty, while remaining poised and refined, backed by velvety mouthfeel and fine tannins. Gracefully powerful and alluringly seductive. At its best: 2019 to 2030."

£42.50 per bottle

Bannockburn Vineyard

The location of Valli’s Bannockburn Vineyard is only 20km from Gibbston in the Cromwell basin, but the difference in climate is responsible for creating markedly different wines. The Bannockburn wines reflect this warmer area by displaying darker fruits, by being denser, more powerful and with longevity based more on their tannin structure, as opposed to Gibbston wines which are based more on their acidity. The soils are also windblown loess over gravelly schist but with sandier, deeper topsoil, which allows for free draining. Climate, rather than soil, attributes to the main difference in the wines.

Valli Vineyards Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2017

96 Points - Sam Kim (Wine Orbit) "It is irresistibly expressed on the nose showing dark berry, raspberry, dried herb, toasted almond and olive characters. The palate is equally engaging and gratifying with sweet berry flavours and multi-layered mouthfeel, finishing superbly long and flowing. Sophisticated, comforting and stunning.
At its best: 2019 to 2027."

£42.50 per bottle

Bendigo Vineyard

The Bendigo Pinot Noir is the newest addition to the Valli stable of Single Vineyard Pinot Noirs. Several years ago, Grant was involved in the largest-ever plantings at Bendigo, across 5 different sites, and quickly identified "Chinaman's Terrace" as his favourite. The higher elevation of this site means slightly cooler temperatures, which is important in these warmer sub regions, and good airflow, helping to prevent rot and mould.  The wines from this very warm part of Otago have been described as "big friendly beasts." They are dark, rich, lush wines capturing the rock-reflected heat and ripeness of this special site.

Valli Vineyards Bendigo Pinot Noir 2017

97 Points - Bob Campbell "A delicious example of Bendigo pinot noir in an almost opulent style with plump, dark-fleshed plum, dark berries with floral and spice notes. A beautifully layered, powerful wine that's accessible now but has a promising future."

97 Points - Sam Kim (Wine Orbit) "This is flatteringly classy; the gloriously perfumed bouquet shows Black Doris plum, spiced cherry, vanilla, cedar and dark mushroom characters, leading to a sumptuous palate that is silky and mouth-filling. Richly fruited and delectably textured, this charismatic pinot offers both refinement and opulence, promising to evolve splendidly. At its best: 2019 to 2027."

£42.50 per bottle

Waitaki Vineyard

New Zealand’s newest and most exciting wine growing region where, like Burgundy, the soils are limestone based. After only a few commercial vintages, Valli are already seeing incredible consistency in the perfume and minerality of the wines. Slightly cooler than Central Otago, the Waitaki Valley is not cropped as heavily, and planted with early ripening clones from Dijon and Pommard.

Valli Vineyards Waitaki Pinot Noir 2017

95 Points - Sam Kim (Wine Orbit) "Engaging and complex, the inviting bouquet shows red/black cherry, fragrant spice, thyme, nutmeg and floral characters. The palate is wonderfully weighted and rounded, delivering sweet berry flavours and silky texture, magnificently complemented by spicy nuances and fine tannins. Elegant, stylish and delicious. At its best: now to 2025."

£42.50 per bottle

Valli Vineyards 2017 Four Bottle Pack

1 x Valli Vineyards Bendigo Pinot Noir 2017 - 97 Points

1 x Valli Vineyards Gibbston Pinot Noir 2017 - 97 Points 

1 x Valli Vineyards Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2017 - 96 Points 

1 x Valli Vineyards Waitaki Pinot Noir 2017 - 95 Points

£170.00 per case of 4

Muddy Water

Waipara, South Island

Our Wine of the Week:

Muddy Water Chardonnay 2016

97+ Points Stuart McCloskey "My third bottle and my opinion has not changed. An ineffably complex bouquet which builds and builds with more aeration in the glass. Emphatically, mineral-dominated, which combine perfectly with Amalfi lemon peel and orchard fruits (quince). The palate is full of energy, exhilarating, tightly coiled and perfectly balanced. The wine is chiselled, builds slowly and would benefit from decanting. Richness does not come in the form of fruit. Instead, the wine's fullness comes in the form of texture (phenolic weight) which is undeniably attractive (a nod to the painstaking work carried out in the vineyard). Wet stones wash across my palate but it’s the salinity which I love and sets this New Zealand Chardonnay apart from all the others. There’s a killer line of acidity which will ease with more time in the bottle. Wonderfully alive, memorable and a breathtaking wine. Wow! Served in Zalto Bordeaux glassware." Drink now to 2026

£24.95 per bottle
or £22.95 in cases of 6 or more

New Arrivals & Back in Stock

Single Vineyard Wines

The Cornerstone Estate Wine

Muddy Water Pinot Noir 2016

96 Points - Magdalena Sienkiewicz "Quality-driven, the Muddy Water maxim is ‘hand-crafted…no compromise’ which is prominent across the range. Everything about their Estate Pinot Noir translates to great quality you often find at a higher price tier. Deep colour, fantastic aromas of ripe blackberries, morello cherry, kirsch and autumn leaves with lingering hints of nutmeg are indeed signs of no compromises here. The cascade of sweet fruit on the palate is followed by expansive, well-rounded textures evolving from the initial sweet fruit to a broad, savoury finish. Full malolactic fermentation gave it a beautifully soft and well-integrated acidity. The wine spent 16 months in barrel before racking, blending and bottling, which aids complexity. Bottled unfiltered in order to retain as much natural flavour as possible."

£23.50 per bottle

Pegasus Bay

Waipara, South Island

Pegasus Bay Bel Canto Dry Riesling 2015

Stuart McCloskey "Without doubt, the best new world Riesling I've tasted."

James Suckling.com "A very powerful and essence-like expression of pickled lime, preserved lemon and baked peach fruits. The structure is impeccably judged, reining in massive amounts of flavor perfectly."

£20.50 per bottle

Pegasus Bay Chardonnay 2016

97 Points - Stuart McCloskey “Reductive with aromas still very much in development. That said, this impeccably made wine is centred around textural elegance, satiny structure, mid-palate depth and an effortless sense of cohesion. Decanting for a short while is essential as the oxygenation takes it from the ordinary to immensely appealing. Layer upon layer of fruit and white flowers harmonises beautifully with oatmeal and a beautiful vein of minerality. This is more tensile, finer than many, which adds an intellectual quality found with high-quality Burgundy. This is a superb Chardonnay from one of New Zealand's leading producers. I recommend a drinking window from now to 2025 but would not be surprised to this peak beyond 10 years.. Sampled in Zalto Bordeaux glassware and comes highly recommended”.

£22.50 per bottle

New: Pegasus Bay Chardonnay 2017

96 Points - James Suckling "Impressive, vibrant and flinty white-peach and grapefruit aromas with an array of fresh, spicy, hazelnut-tinged oak. The palate combines a lot of ripe melon and white peaches with smoky, grilled nuts. Great wine that’s packed with interest. Drink now. Screw cap."

£22.95 per bottle

Villa Maria Taylors Pass Sauvignon Blanc 2018

97 Points - Decanter "With its fresh, sappy, crushed-spring-leaf aromas and limpid, long, vinous yet tender flavour profile, this is great Sauvignon from an outstanding site rather than one of the overt or flamboyant Marlborough Sauvignons that drinkers have become used to (and often bored by). It's charming too, with its whispered sweet-pea floral notes. Pretty and distracting enough to serve on its own on a warm afternoon, but with all the structure and sap to accompany food well, too. Marlborough is moving on.
Drink 2019-2022."

£15.20 per bottle

Villa Maria Ngakirikiri
Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

 100 Points - Sam Kim (Wine Orbit)  "Is this perfection? No, it is better than that, if that is possible. The wine is perfectly formed and composed, and is very proper, but it offers more. Exceptional concentration, brilliant structure, impressive fruit purity and layers of delicious flavours with seamless mouthfeel make this stunning wine thought-provoking and sensually awe-inspiring. This predominantly cabernet sauvignon from their Ngakirikiri vineyard in the Gimblett Gravels district exhibits cassis, plum, floral and cedar characters with subtle cigar box, vanilla and game complexity. Powerful and graceful at the same time with plenty of fine, chalky tannins."

£82.50 per bottle

Oak aged for greater complexity

Giesen The Fuder
Matthews Lane Sauvignon Blanc 2013

Winemaker "We hand pick the fruit from Matthews Lane vineyard ensuring each parcel of fruit is in pristine condition. After a yeast starter the juice rests on yeast lees for 11 months in new 1,000L German Oak Fuder Barrels. The use of Fuder barrels in this way ensures our Single Vineyard white wines develop a greater complexity and refinement because oak doesn’t dominate. The ratio of wine in contact with the barrel surface is less than smaller barrels so oak pick up is less. The staves of Fuder barrels are thicker which means the temperature of ferment tends to be warmer and we find the fruit characters gain greater depth and complexity."

£33.95 per bottle

Dog Point Section 94 2015

97 Points Stuart McCloskey "Dog Point's Section 94 has always been a favourite of mine and can, in correct cellaring conditions, mature wonderfully over a decade. This is another example of a medium to full-bodied, textural style of Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes for Section 94 come from a single, low cropping vineyard parcel first planted in 1992. The fruit is hand-picked, whole bunch pressed and aged in older French oak barrels for 18 months. Every vintage has a funky edge which you either love or not. Those seeking simplistic Kiwi fruit pops should avoid at all costs as this is a serious, large scale wine that deserves a little respect. The aromas are taut, tightly wound with the ‘funk’ reducing with 20/30 minutes in a decanter (highly recommended). Tropical no - Yellow stone fruits in abundance with a vein of minerality appearing mid-palate. There’s a real intensity which is exceptional and rarely found with the majority of New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs. The finish is endless… In short, brilliant!"

£21.00 per bottle

Vidal Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2018

Winemaker "Intense passionfruit aromas combine with tropical fruit flavours, as well as some herbal notes apparent in the background. A classic Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc that is fresh, pure and long on the palate. This wine reflects premium vineyard sites within the Wairau and Awatere Valleys."

£13.95 per bottle