Magda and I took along a dozen wines to September’s premium Australia tasting entitled ‘Australia Redefined' which was organised by the team at Wine Australia UK. The concept being that all entrants on show must sell for upwards of £20 per bottle (retail price). It was predominantly geared towards the trade and press however, there was an evening slot for private customers (over 50% of all attendees were Vinorium customers) who were able to meet some of the charismatic winemakers including Sam Barry (Jim Barry Wines), Bruce Tyrrell (Tyrrell’s Wines), Justine Henschke (Henschke) and who could forget Chester Osborn from d’Arenberg…

I confess, UK trade tastings are not my favourite events as the cost (table, samples and time) versus returned orders, which and to this date equals zero, makes our presence rather pointless. Of course, some brands / importers feel the need whatever the commercial outcome however, after eight hours of pouring wine with an increase in lower back stiffness and my feet screaming for a good massage, I would rather sit at my desk in comfort and save a little money.

But ‘Australia Redefined’ was different and most enjoyable. Not from a point of income as this event kept-up our perfect record of a clean order sheet, but more from an attendance perspective. Allow me to explain. The wine trade is predominantly male (but the balance is changing) with a very specific uniform based on age groups. The more senior representatives insist on wearing pink or red chinos, white or blue shirt and a dark blazer. Despite the indoor environment, scarves often adorn their shoulders. The younger wine models insist on super-tight, super-skinny jeans which must be airbrushed on. Ankles on show (of course), no socks and loafers. It’s like a Grattan’s catalogue catwalk show!

Under normal circumstances, arms appear from the crowd with an empty glass dangling at the end of a limb. A monotone grunt for “number 4 please” comes from the empty glass, we pour, they sniff, sip and fight around the spittoon to dribble the remnants out (note to those who cannot aim – DO NOT wear a white shirt!). What I always find fascinating is the lack of information they require. Often, they are sampling Vinorium wines for the very first time and haven’t got a bloody clue what they are tasting, save for the grape variety which is written in the tasting brochure. Why do they attend if they have no interest in the wine? Got it – it’s an auditioning room (with a little wine play-acting) for the next series of Made in Chelsea.

I believed I digressed a little. The event was well attended by the press – Perhaps they were lured with the prerequisite of sampling premium Aussie wine. We thought we would offer a flavour of Tasmania with representation from Hughes & Hughes, Glaetzer-Dixon and Domaine Simha with a dash of the Margaret River and the Yarra Valley (courtesy of Hoddles Creek, Soumah & Nocturne). Without exception, an Australian wine tasting must have Shiraz and we took along some beauties including Craig Stansborough’s After Five Wine Co, the goliath that is 2016 Standish The Relic and one of the finds of the year(s), Hutton Vale Farm Shiraz.

The press were all positively charming, engaged, personable, thirsty for knowledge and thankfully, followed their own fashion sense. Magda and I spent much of the day pouring and talking with the likes of Susie Barrie MW, Jancis Robinson MW, Matthew Jukes, Alistair Cooper MW, Richard Bampfield MW, Team Decanter, and Aussie favourite, Mike Bennie who works closely with our very own Dr Edge. I thoroughly enjoy listening to their reactions and thoughts on our offerings. Most are honest, and I find little, if any argument with their respective assessments. After all, these are some of the finest palates in the world.

Regardless of status, personal preference with styles, use of oak, alcohol levels etc, everyone is looking for balance and ideally, a wine that delivers in all areas. Succinct, neat & tidy, personality, and nothing OTT. Given the volume of wines in the room, some (if they formed part of a group) split their duties. Team Jancis MW divided their sampling between Shiraz and Chardonnay. Alistair Cooper MW taking the red option with Jancis MW taking Chardonnay. Matthew Jukes can motor his way through the entire room and sampled every wine on our table. Usually, Matthew is a non-talker – a head down sipper and scribbler which I would say does not show Matthew at his best.

I get it – You have little time to talk when you plan to sample the entire room however, and I am sure without consideration, it may appear rather elitist.

That day, Matthew engaged on every wine as did the vast amount of respected palates. For example; Richard Bampfield MW spent an age with us, which I find fantastic and puts a zip into my stride. Every attending importer and producer needs to hear feedback but quite often, we all must wait. That said; Matthew Jukes was clear in his views and whilst shaking my hand, pointed and declared Hutton Vale Farm Shiraz as one of his 100 Best Australian Wines, a lovely nod to the quality of this very famous albeit unknown producer of great Shiraz. This week, JancisRobinson.com published their first article, written by Alistair. Surprise, surprise, guess which wine he chose as a standout and from our table, and taking the top spot? Hutton Vale Shiraz of course… 

This superseded Nick Glaetzer’s Mon Père Shiraz 2017 which was declared “a lovely half-way house between Old and New World”, The After Five Co which was viewed as “Chocolate, cream and oak intertwined with smoke and stewed plums and fine tannins. Classy but a real powerhouse” and the epic 2016 Relic received a less-than epic score “definitely in a ripe style with extreme concentration. This will have its admirers, and it is impressive and showy. However, the alcohol is a little prominent for me on the finish”. The same wine received 99 points from Joe at RobertParker.com! Always remember, your opinion is the most important. Take guidance but always trust yourself…

Hutton Vale was scored higher than Halliday’s sell-out Wine of the Year and 99-point, 2017 John Duval Entity. What did Alistair think of our Hutton Vale Farm? “Mocha and coffee notes with dried figs. Full-throttle palate with mocha, and incredibly refined tannins – such concentration of fruit, and yes, that alcohol is hefty but it carries it beautifully. The acidity lifts it and keeps it going … a menthol twist leads to a harmonious finish”

How is this unknown producer/wine taking the top spot I hear you ask?  The answer is super simple albeit rather lengthy in reply.

Owned by the Angas family, Hutton Vale Farm has an incredible story with an ancestry steeped in Australian history dating back to George Fife Angas who founded South Australia. However, it was the mention of the Mount Edelstone vineyard which piqued our interest, one of the most famous and revered sites in Australia, which is now owned by the Henschke family. 

It was Ronald Angas, (the Great-Grandfather) who originally planted the great Mount Edelstone vineyard in 1912 and unusually for the time, planted 100% Shiraz. Ronald managed the vineyard and began selling the fruit to the Henschke family until they eventually sold it to Henschke in the 1970s. During the 1960s Ronald had taken cuttings from the Mount Edelstone vineyard and planted the Hutton Vale Farm vineyard just one kilometre north. At the same time, he planted single vineyard blocks of Riesling and Grenache which were followed by a further block of Shiraz (from the same root stock) and a single block of Cabernet Sauvignon during the 1990s.

The first vintage was in 1987 with John Duval, the Penfolds Grange winemaker at the time who was also a family friend, who had promised to show the family how good the fruit was. The wines are now produced by Kym Teusner of Teusner wines who first became familiar and developed an ambition to work with the Hutton Vale fruit whilst at Torbreck.

The vineyard contains some of the most sought-after fruit in the region, the sheer quality of this fruit continuously confirmed by some of Barossa’s best producers who source grapes from the Hutton Vale Farm vineyard for their flagship wines. Wolf Blass platinum label had previously won the title of world’s best Shiraz using fruit from the Hutton Vale vineyard which is an incredible statement to be able to make. But perhaps even more impressive is that Dan Standish uses 100% Hutton Vale Farm Shiraz for his Lamella.

We love this wine and I personally find the quality and sympathetic approach to farming and winemaking at the highest level. The wine itself, is something very special indeed and I would implore you to give it a bash. I have reduced the price for the week to assist your temptation…

Cheers, Stu