Issue #155, May 2021 Part II: Let’s talk vintage with Mike, Melissa, Chris and Liam…Mike & Melissa from GemtreeVintage at Gemtree officially wrapped up last Friday, April 30th. We held a lunch and a few drinks to celebrate with the entire winery team to thank them all for their hard work and dedication over a long, steady and superb vintage 2021. 2020 was a very challenging year for the entire globe, and for us 2020 began with a difficult vintage. Spring winds all but decimated our Tempranillo and the heat over summer made predicting optimum harvest time difficult. The downside of the vintage was lower yields, especially Tempranillo. 2020 was a vintage where patience was required, the normal technical signs of harvest were not as reliable. We needed instead to trust our judgement through constantly tasting the berries in the vineyard to determine optimal flavour ripeness before harvest. Josh and I enjoyed the process, harvesting on flavour and tannin ripeness by taste. This meant that what was picked was optimal, and so far in the bottle the wines look superb. We paid particular attention to the Small Batch and Biodynamic Icon fruit and these wines will be real highlights of 2020. 2021 was much more forgiving! Growing conditions were close to perfect, yields were above average and overall the quality is outstanding. We had excellent rainfall in the winter of 2020 and a mild spring and summer. It was an old school 12-week vintage. There was a little less angst in the cellar this year, the steady arrival of grapes meant there were less arguments over press and tank availability! Everything was much smoother and relaxed. The crew were happy to work over Easter rather than deal with the chaos of a short vintage. The long, slow and even ripening of the grapes allowed for excellent flavour development, crunchy natural acidity and in the reds, perfectly balanced tannin. At Gemtree we like to keep things interesting, especially during the festival of the grape. This year we have made our very first Fiano. The McLaren Vale climate is perfectly suited to this variety. The 2021 Luna Crescente Fiano is finished and due for bottling in the next week or so, ready to be released later in the month. We are very excited by this wine, great to have this fresh and flavourful white in the collection. We also had a few new open top fermenters to play with this year. They are a bit larger than our concrete fermenters and a bit tougher to hand dig. I’m always happy to put my hand up to have a dig, keeps me away from the emails! After 2020, the 2021 vintage for us was a time of celebrating what we do and why we are in the business of growing grapes and making wines. The cellar was full of optimism, not only for the great fruit being brought in, but also for enjoying the normality of making wine. Despite everything that occurred around us, inside the wine cellar the old traditions remain, and the new innovations excite. While many other aspects of our business needed to recalibrate, the joy and curiosity of winemaking remains a constant. If wine is a time capsule of a moment, then our 2021 wines could be described as joyous and spirited. “If an alien landed and wanted to try wine I would dig out a Gemtree” – Great quote from one of our customers…Gemtree Wines Phantom Red Blend Ten 201997-98 Points - Stuart McCloskey “A blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon and 39% Mataro, which and despite its tender age is singing wonderfully from the decanter (we sampled after 6 hours). The bouquet is incredibly pure and defined by sweet blueberry, mulberry, dried spice, violet, pen ink and a flicker of mint. The palate is wonderfully structured with grippy tannins – a slight huskiness which will soften with some bottle age. Without stating the obvious, there’s a lovely natural feel to wine. There’s a succulence and coolness to the fruit which I find particularly attractive. Dark plums are in abundance – I detect a little cold metal too. Clearly, a super-classy wine filled with pedigree. Not only a triumphant Biodynamic wine, but a wine which exemplifies modern Aussie winemaking. Served using Zalto Bordeaux glassware. Drink now to 2035+” 97+ Points - Magdalena Sienkiewicz "Blackcurrants, mulberries and eucalyptus provide a strong hint of Cabernet Sauvignon which makes up the majority of the blend along with 39% Mataro. Although lush fruit dominates the nose, there is great depth and wonderful freshness which screams quality. The palate bursts with fruit, spices and herbs which show great foundations for a long, bright future ahead. Good grip from the tannins, yet they travel through the palate with a velvety touch. Great wine with lots of interest and in fact, I’m dying to see it unfold and flourish. Decant for at least 6 hours or hide it in the cellar, as this will develop beautifully over the next decade or more (in the right conditions). Sampled using Zalto Bordeaux glassware." £32.95 per bottle Gemtree Wines Small Batch Cabernet Sauvignon 201997++ Points - Stuart McCloskey “This comes across more serious and restrained compared to the Grenache – I would recommend 4-6 hours in the decanter. This is powerful and grown-up with a brooding bouquet which does take time to develop. Deep, deep, deep aromas of blackcurrant, blackberry, liquorice, Indian ink, bay leaf, clove and the sweetest of spices. Equally, the palate has a serious side and will certainly benefit from time in the cellar. For now, blackcurrant, blackberry and damson add an autumnal feel against a background of savoury black olive and a little rosemary and fresh sage. The tannins are broad and provide a lovely framework to the fruit. It’s a beautiful wine, calming and cooling. There’s generosity but it’s considered. Thoughtful and reflective winemaking with the power of mother earth on show. Deeply impressive and leaves me feeling reflective. Drink now to 2035. Served using Zalto Bordeaux glassware”. 97+ Points - Magdalena Sienkiewicz "Sampled after three hours of decanting. The perfume is rich and brimming with blackcurrants, blackberries, liquorice and aniseed. Graphite and ink add extra layers of aromatic depth. The palate is tensile and you can easily sense the underlying power of this wine. Very controlled and dignified, all its dark fruit is wrapped in a blanket of textural bliss. I love the savoury edge and balanced freshness which prevails on the expansive palate and broadens as I taste. With 2-3 years in the cellar (at the very least), it should unveil further complexities which will be very exciting to watch. Serious Cabernet which should be treated as such. Sampled in Zalto Bordeaux Glassware." £29.95 per bottle Gemtree Wines Bloodstone Shiraz 201996 Points - Stuart McCloskey “How daft of me to sample the most junior wine after the magnificence that is Subterra. Another way of looking at it is – is there breadth and depth to Gemtree’s entire portfolio? In short, the answer is affirmative as this is a joyous beauty strutting with confidence, despite its respectable price tag. The nose offers some warmth from clove and sweet spices. Brooding and actually proving more adult than I expected. The palate is washed with sweet, ripe fruit. Interestingly, this wine lacks the ‘coolness’ of its big brothers, but it misses nothing for it. This is a really joyous slap and tickle of delicious quaffable Shiraz (I have omitted using our Aussie friends’ description, ‘smash-able’). It’s drenched with plums, blueberries, blackberries, mint, vanilla, coconut, kirsch and olive all wrapped in a gentle hug of tannin. The length is super-impressive. In fact (and a little secret) I have a few wines at 25 quid which are not as good! Decant for a few hours and serve using Zalto Bordeaux glassware (this will make all the difference). Drink now to 2025+.” £18.50 per bottle Gemtree Wines Cinnabar GSM 201996 Points - Stuart McCloskey “This is a beautiful wine to drink. Seamless, the fruit is ripe and plush, the tannins pillowy with some lift from a judicious line of acidy. I will say that the tannins and acidity provide wonderful shape and support. All-in-all, everything is perfect for a wine of this quality. It reminds me of putting on a cashmere jumper… The fruit leads with raspberry which provides yin & yang of sweetness and acidity. The texture is striking simply due to the silkiness. I detect a sprinkling of dried herbs and earth. Long and balanced to perfection. Drinking fabulously now and will continue to do so until 2025. Decant for an hour or two. Served using Zalto Bordeaux glassware” £18.50 per bottle Chris from Coulter WinesVineyards/fruit:South Australia experienced moderate spring rain in 2020, an unseasonably cool summer and a dry ripening season - all contributing to fantastic conditions for fruit maturity leading into harvest. Resultant fruit boasted structure, density, colour and high levels of natural acidity within the berries, making them as near perfect for making wine as I have experienced. Winemaking:Due to great conditions as mentioned above, the wines were a pleasure to make in vintage 2021. The Chardonnay always sings at the juice stage, however this year's fruit and juice both had a near electric quality about them, the Chard is now safely tucked away in barrel for a little winter sleep. All the reds had amazing colour that was apparent upon first crush. The flavour and colour intensity even two days after crush was very exciting and promised exactly what was delivered - lovely plush, deeply coloured red wines with layers of complexity that will undoubtedly be delicious once in bottle. One hallmark of this vintage and more relevant to the reds, was the very high Malic acid, up to 2g/L in some cases. Malic acid (think apples) is eventually converted to lactic acid (think milk), via malolactic fermentation thus adding a beautiful creaminess on the palate. What this means is these wines, while being initially high in natural acid are finishing secondary ferment with a beautiful plushness. This has been a true vineyard vintage! Perhaps the most exciting thing for me is the fact that I received some beautiful Barbera grapes after missing out in 2020 due to fire damage in the vineyard. The Barbera has literally just been pressed off its skins and looks truly magnificent and I cannot wait to get it in a bottle and over to the UK for you all to enjoy. Vintage reflections:Whilst vintage is a very exciting time, it can also be extremely stressful, filled with many sleepless nights thinking about your babies (the ferments!), therefore being proactive pays dividends regarding personal wellbeing. Continual monitoring and “experience bred” action is key. Knowing when and where the problems may arise helps me sleep at night. Despite all the highs and lows, it is the most rewarding time of year. My family are a great support and always ready to give out hugs after a 13hr day – it really puts things back into perspective for me. 2020 Wines:The 2020 wines are looking amazing, they are currently in trade domestically and already getting some extremely positive feedback. The 2020 Chardonnay is single vineyard (Echunga sub region, Adelaide Hills) and is displaying a wonderful spine of crisp acidity with the fruit richness so typical of that vineyard. The Sangiovese is always very popular and the 2020 is no exception, showing supple tannin structure, balanced acidity and some lovely tertiary characters are emerging. Pinot Noir was another standout variety in 2020 and the C3 is no exception, sour red fruited, mid palate slipperiness supported by some lovely weight and balance. Other reds produced in 2020 include a single vineyard Adelaide Grenache and a Tempranillo for Loxton, again both looking amazing. I am extremely proud and happy with these wines. Overall - things are going well, and I am grateful for the support the brand has been receiving, it inspires me to keep pursuing excellence in everything we do in the winery. Cheers and many thanks, Chris. “OH YES, this is a brilliant wine. I’m not hugely qualified in all things Chardonnay but have recently been drinking Hardys Eileen so have a decent benchmark. This has a classic Chardonnay backbone along with a welcome freshness; even a floral quality. Super enjoyable and a great example of jumping on any experienced wine makers personal project. Thinking they naturally put just a little more of their heart and soul into the winemaking....” A lovely quote from one of our customers, Mr Jones… Coulter Wines C1 Chardonnay Adelaide Hills 201997+ – 98 Points - Stuart McCloskey “What an explosive and heavenly bouquet filled with candied peel, citrus oil, sea spray, fennel seed and confit lemons. The sweet and alluring scent of jasmine creeps in with more aeration. Take a sip, swallow, sit back and enjoy the complexity. The palate feel is simply glorious, expansive, richly textured, powerful (without being heavy), multi-layered and almost endless. Crystal-like definition kicks in and provides structural finesse along with mouth cleansing acidity (more confit lemon than searing grip). There’s pristine detail on show and the finish goes on for many minutes. Again, we finish with sea spray, confit lemon and mineralité. In summary, this is perfectly balanced, a joy to drink today but has the structure to evolve for another 6-8 years and delivers waves of textural finesse. Very, very, very good indeed. Do not overchill. Served using Zalto Bordeaux glassware”. 97+ Points – Magdalena Sienkiewicz "Immediately, the vibrant perfume oozes and fills the surroundings with an abundance of ripe citrus, sweet figs and yellow peaches. Rich notes of sea spray and salty minerals frame the plentiful fruit beautifully, while a whiff of white flowers, beeswax and vanilla add exuberance. I keep coming back to the glass admiring this rather flamboyant perfume. Honeyed pears emerge with aeration and those elegant floral elements prevail. So much energy without losing its composure. The palate is equally rich and layered, laced with grapefruit, confit lemon, minerals and a creamy chalkiness. Superb weight with nutty complexities and mouthcoating texture. This is lip-smackingly delicious! Drinking amazingly now, but it certainly has the structure to evolve over the next 6-8 years. Sampled using Zalto Bordeaux glassware after 30 minutes of decanting and again on the next day." £24.95 per bottle Coulter Wines C5 Barbera Adelaide Hills 201995+ - 96 Points - Stuart McCloskey “Blue and black fruits in abundance, gift-wrapped in a velvety robe of sweet spice (black liquorice too). Like the Shiraz, this is another charmer and will please all those seeking textural richness, generosity and fun. On a serious vinous note, this maybe quaffable, but the wine has a serious edge. The lasting fruit flavours impress, there’s ample texture and acidity that is always an important component to a good Barbera (but not too much). Harmonious in a word… Decant for an hour. Served using Bordeaux Zalto glassware” 96 Points - Magdalena Sienkiewicz "A vibrant medley of red and blue fruits dominates the perfume with a good dusting of sweet spices and vanilla. The palate is more plush than I was expecting and lacks the harsh acidity often associated with Barbera. The sweetness of its ripe fruit is quite delectable and the texture bright and super smooth. This is dangerously easy-drinking and perhaps the perfect wine to have alongside easy, fuss-free suppers like pizza or sausages and mash. Perfectly enjoyable in its youth. Sampled using Zalto Bordeaux glassware following one hour of decanting." £19.50 per bottle We love this customer review “With the first sip I instinctively thought ‘where is the iPad’ to order some more. That to me says it all and now I have ordered another six I am selfishly ready to rate! I have recently tasted Utopos and Standish and still am completely blown away by the quality of this Syrah. I agree with Stu: who knows the drinking window - who cares! This is THE wine to drink whilst you wait for the big guns mentioned to mature. Get in quick so you don’t have FOMOOW.” Coulter Wines C4 Experimental Syrah
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