I do hope my email finds everyone refreshed following the glorious Easter break – four days of sheer bliss, although, as a gardener, I am longing for some rain – long evenings of light rainfall please (if anyone is listening). On the flipside, the benefit of dry ground comes in the form of progression with our new HQ. The demolition is completed, which is astonishing - Not a single morsel has been left. The crushing of all the old concrete has also finished and this will now be used as aggregate for the carpark sub-base. I have included a few photographs to demonstrate the progression.

This week, stage II has begun – setting out the footings and digging the trench for UKPN to divert the overhead electricity cables (underground) to the neighbouring farm. If the weather continues, we expect to have the huge substructure finished within the next 12-14 weeks. At this rate, I assumed we would be on target for a February / March opening – the remainder of the build team scoffed at my naivety.  For those who missed the launch of our HQ communique – it’s worth the read.

My Aussie friend, and wine critic, Erin Larkin shared a secret with me a few months back. Erin was offered the position as Robert Parker’s (Wine Advocate) first, dedicated Australian wine reviewer which was an invitation too good to refuse. Erin and I spent over six-months working on a special Judgment of Paris style tasting between the great wines from the Margaret River versus Bordeaux, Burgundy and the USA. It is a stellar line-up with all the bottles sitting in our HQ wine bunker. Sadly, and given Erin’s new position, she is unable to partake in activities outside of her role, which I respect. A worthy replacement has been lined up however, the event is currently on-hold as hosting a glorious tasting whilst we witness unspeakable war crimes in Ukraine, is unpalatable in my books.

Erin’s new role is an important one as few critics (on this global scale) provide detailed, regional vintage reports on Australia. A deeper understanding of regional winemaking, microclimates and reading the emotion is what has been missing for years. Sadly today, the critics’ scores rule – some of their tasting notes baffle me. Bland, incredibly short with an undercurrent of ‘I can’t be bothered’ yet, they score 98-100 points and if the price is right, they sell-out. Erin is a detailed communicator and the pressure to show the world how truly diverse Australian wine is, now sits on her shoulders. I have no doubt, she will triumph…

Recently, I have appeared / been the voice on several Aussie wine podcasts. The most recent, was a Q&A session for Austrade; guiding Australian exporters wishing to access UK importers. We import wines from 47 producers (some 300 different labels) which, I imagine, is the reason they canvassed my opinion. Both podcasts asked the same questions, and that was ‘how best to access the UK wine market’ and ‘what does an importer look for in an Aussie wine.’ Of course, each importer’s standards differ as does their point of sale. From The Vinorium’s perspective, I require consistency of supply and not to be at the bottom of the pile when it comes to receiving an allocation. This is a prudent point and one we are now seeing more regularly – wine producers preferring to keep highly rated wines for their cellar door / domestic markets. From a profitability aspect, it is clear to understand why however, it is irksome and destabilises the relationship. Equally, I acknowledge low-yields and the resulting reduction in bottles physically produced however, cutting off complete allocations sends the relationship into the bin, which is a point each wine producer must heed.

It works both ways as we are delaying placing orders with several of our producers. The impact of the pandemic continues to cause huge problems with deep-sea shipments (Australia is often missed off by major shipping lines) and the costs remain high, however they have stabilised. It is the impact of the Ukrainian war which has caused most of our current problems. We have plummeted against the Aussie dollar, packaging has increased by 20% in the past 8-weeks, and 60% in the past 12-months. Fuel surcharges, delivery costs et cetera have skyrocketed. Combine everything together, and we are enduring an enormous price increase on a bottle of wine. Moreover, some producers believe that it’s a good time to increase their prices, and some by 20%! Regrettably, we have cancelled all pre-orders with producers who would not keep to the same price point. To expect customers to pay an additional £5 per bottle is completely daft…

Despite the challenges, the team and I have been working our way through many, many samples. The new releases from Glaetzer-Dixon, Gemtree, JC’s Own, and Greenock Creek are delicious. The Pinot Noir collection from Tassie producer, Ghost Rock are all a dream. The ’21 Supernatural Pinot Noir is left in its purest, most unadulterated form and it delivers bucket loads of deliciousness. Justin’s single vineyard Pinot Noir series is particularly impressive and includes the 2020 Climat, ’21 La Filles and the ’21 Bonadale. We would like them all however, we must be patient as Ghost Rock is mid-harvest and too busy to deal with demanding export partners.

Moving vast volumes of stock to our new HQ is something I am keen to avoid. Consequently, we are judging our agency stock positions carefully, but without diminishing our range and services. Let’s call it a careful juggling act, juxtaposed with offering a collection of wines which fall outside of our exclusivities, something we promised towards the latter part of 2021. I must mention the arrival of the 2020 Standish collection – the vessel is planned to dock in the UK on or around 16 May. By now, you are all experienced enough to expect some form of delay. We anticipate taking physical possession week of the 30^th however, on a sceptical note, the following week is more likely.

Clearly, I cursed myself with the Standish shipment as I received an email overnight from our Aussie shipping agent. “The delay appears to be with the transhipment vessel from Singapore to London – the One Blue Jay. It’s changed ETA London from the 30/04 to the 16/05, 22/05, 26/05 and today’s update is 27/05. So, from the initial booking, it’s not so bad, but there are still so many delays with port congestion that prepare for it to be later than the 27^th.” What a pickle! As ever, we will let you all know, and in good time.

Henschke requires no introduction and historically it was an enormous seller at The Vinorium – do you remember the huge, mature collection which we offered back in 2017 / 2018. In total 8,900 bottles were sold including ’01, ’02 and ’04 Mount Edelstone (1,241 bottles to be precise) for an average sales price of £60.00 (inclusive of duty and VAT). Today, you will be paying £100+ per bottle, which and given the cost of Hill of Grace, does seem (relatively) well priced. We all know the relationship to Standish Lamella with the current releases being offered for £85.00. Would you like the opportunity to purchase the 2017 vintage (pre-arrival basis?) Please contact us directly.

Personally, I am particularly partial to Cyril, which is one of my favourite Aussie Cabernet Sauvignons along with their Keyneton Euphonium, a beautiful composition of Shiraz from up to 50-year-old vines growing in the Eden and Barossa Valleys, blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc from selected vineyards in both regions.

For a test, we have purchased a little (only 48 bottles) ’16 Euphonium – the price versus value is on point. If they sell, we will purchase more and consider stocking a larger selection from Henschke. Over to you, as they say!

2016 Henschke Keyneton Estate Euphonium

Only 47 bottles available

£39.95 per bottle

Stuart McCloskey “In two words - Cooling and soothing best describes the bouquet along with dried tea leaves, graphite, kelp, saddle leather, Indian ink, plum and spiced black fruits. I detect a little waft of iodine too. To me, simply lovely and I am very happy. Everything about the ’16 is modest and effortless. It’s one of those wines which makes you want to light the fire and open a good book. The palate flows to the same soulful and pleasing tune. Filigree tannins provide the faintest hug of grip. No, it’s not overly complex, yet there is no disappointment. The fruit is generous, edged with sweetness with a little woodsmoke – a rounded lusciousness with a lift of minty freshness. Blackberry, brambly / hedgerow fruit, violet, tobacco, mint and cedar. From start to finish, this flows with absolute enjoyment and so much prettiness. It’s faultless. Focus on the tasting note and not the lack of a score (it’s an in-house test!). Served using Zalto Bordeaux glassware. Decant for an hour or so. Drinking now to 2028.”

2021 Henschke Julius Eden Valley Riesling

Only 24 bottles available

£30.95 per bottle

98 Points – James Halliday “Citrus and passionfruit blossom soar as you swirl the glass, and the palate achieves the seemingly impossible with the volume of turbo-charged fruit. It reaches every receptor in the mouth and there's no hint of added acidity, the balance and length faultless.”

From Marlborough, New Zealand, we welcome, after a very long break, the superb Wild Sauvignon from Greywacke. We have purchased a tiny parcel (a mere 36 bottles) of the 2013 which is stunning and provides an alternative style of Sauvignon Blanc that is both complex and textural. My first shop (2014 / 2015) offered the entire Greywacke collection which always found favour with our customers. Perhaps it’s time we offer the range again?

2013 Greywacke Wild Sauvignon

Only 29 bottles available

£32.95 per bottle

97 Points - Stuart McCloskey “Put this in a blind tasting and tell me it’s almost ten-years of age - astonishing. Moreover, this kills off the argument that New World Sauvignon Blanc cannot age well. Of course, the caveat being that it must be ‘very good’ in the first instance, which this is. The freshness and vitality is extraordinary – I am genuinely bowled over. The bouquet expands with nettle, passionfruit, baked apricot, blackcurrant leaf, fennel seed, fennel throngs (essentially anise-like fresh herbs), lemon grass, freshly grated lemon zest (almost sorbet like freshness to the lemon), a little ginger and fresh Thai spices. Spiced, poached pear and guava if you leave a drop in the glass for a minute or two. Simply delectable and would serve as a dream pudding. The flavours are mouth filling and range from ripe stone-fruit and spice. Lemon drives the citrus with a soupçon of lime and fresh herbs. The wine’s structure remains firm and completely intact – there’s nothing blowsy about this. Wonderfully clean and moreish. Set aside your prejudice for New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc - This is an example of great winemaking and most importantly, a delicious wine. This is an emphatic, mature release. The wine was bottled in November 2014 and cellared at the winery prior to its release. Served using Zalto Bordeaux glassware. Drink now to 2025.”

Another returning favourite, comes in the form of Blank Canvas (Marlborough, New Zealand). I know Matt Thompson from his winemaking days at Saint Clair, although we need to go back a good few years. Sadly, we lost touch with his and his winemaking (Master of Wine) wife’s wines a long time back, which is careless and something I am keen to put right. Today, we offer two belting releases (hopefully the full collection in the coming weeks).

2020 Blank Canvas `Reed` Marlborough Chardonnay

We begin with a small 180 bottle parcel

Highly regarded by many of the world’s leading critics. Notably, Julia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com, awarded an outstanding 18 Points which, and for those who know the JR.com scoring system, is rather special. "Seductive and well-judged ‘reductive’ (smoky, struck-match) aroma and really toasty as it opens up, something cedary. Very Coche Dury but, most importantly, there is the fruit intensity to carry off this winemaking style. Nutty, creamy, mealy citrus. So many things going on that it makes you slow down to try to enjoy all this complexity. Deep, deliciously fresh and incredibly persistent with an aftertaste of savoury/mineral citrus. Worth every penny of its NZ price of $45 (from the producer's website). Classy and got better and better over the few days post opening."

£27.50 per bottle

97+ - 98 Points - Stuart McCloskey “Parallels have already been drawn to Coche Dury which are unmistakable as are similarities to Domaine Leflaive. The bouquet fascinates – smoky popcorn, toasted nuts, hay, milk, a fresh rasp of nutmeg and saline – super savoury with the faintest lemon twang on the end. Fascinatingly complex and a wine I could sniff for hours.  The palate is beautifully detailed and fine boned. I love the texture – silky and caressing. Power juxtaposed with finesse. This is immensely satisfying whilst raising questions of intrigue. Wonderfully complex albeit in a nonchalant way. Drink now (do not overchill) to 2030. Served using Zalto Bordeaux glassware.”

2018 Blank Canvas `Abstract` Sauvignon Blanc

Only 58 bottles available

Great description from Matt “Dillons Point | Marlborough - Our alternative take on the classic style, our Abstract Sauvignon Blanc is about savoury complexity and seamless texture that we think draws parallels with the best white Bordeaux wines, at a fraction of the price. While the classic expression of this famous wine style is about fruit purity and crispness, this wine represents an alternative interpretation. ‘Abstract’ is a departure from the norm. This wine is all about texture and layers of aromatic complexity derived from both fruit and winemaking. The Holdaway family vineyard in Dillons Point provides the pillar of blackcurrant, passionfruit and its signature salty minerality, while the 100% wild yeast fermentation in seasoned French oak puncheons offers savoury attraction and complexity on the palate. Unfined and unfiltered”

And another 18 points from Julia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com, “If the Holdaway Sauvignon was all about the fruit, with a little bit of winemaking, this is more about the winemaking but could not be built like this without that same fruit quality and intensity – as it opens there’s blackcurrant leaf and an almost hidden note of tropical fruit and richness. Marked struck-match, smoky, cordite first impression, but not excessive unless you don’t like this style. This is bold, fresh, with the start of some cedary development of bottle age. On the palate, the texture is rounded and deep, filling the mouth but still incredibly fresh. Long, mouth-watering, salty finish, and a promise of more bottle-aged complexity to come. Delicious now but no rush. Classy, complex, distinctive. For lovers of Sauvignon in the style of Dogpoint Section 94."

£24.50 per bottle

97+ Points - Stuart McCloskey “This is right up my street so far as Sauvignon Blanc goes. A distinct personality and shows Sauvignon Blanc in the finest of forms. I selected Zalto’s Bordeaux glass as I wanted immediate aeration (Universal is perfectly fine). The bouquet delivers an immediate impact of struck match, smoked minerals along with blackcurrant leaf. Wait for a few minutes for the yellow stone fruits, lime zest, lemongrass, kaffir leaf, fresh, green pepper and wafts of sea spray to develop. A tropical element sits in the background and will come to the fore with more bottle age – Passionfruit and fresh ginger juice being the most obvious. The palate delivers outstanding levels of complexity along with layer-upon-layer of character which most Sauvignon Blancs can only dream of. Kudos to Matt and Sophie. Scintillating freshness combined with deep, textural perfection – wonderful mouthfeel which covers every facet. Savour the yellow stone fruit infused with a smoky mineral wash – the epically long, salty finish is incredible. Wonderful, serious and certainly one of Australasia’s best available examples. Fantastic. Drink now to 2027.” 

From the McLaren Vale, we are thrilled to bring a little Mitolo to you all. A previous favourite with almost 1,000 bottles of mature vintages selling. So, we thought we would offer three wines from their ‘small batch’ and ‘single vineyard’ series as a wee-tester (only 36-bottles are currently available).

Ben Glaetzer joined Frank Mitolo as winemaker and business partner of Mitolo Wines in 2000. Ben requires no introduction as we offer his own label along with being UK agents for his brother’s (Glaetzer-Dixon) and uncle’s (John’s Blend) wines.  Ben takes a hands-off approach in the winery and works closely with the Mitolo growers, the Lopresti family, to create the signature Mitolo style.

2019  Serpico 100% McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon

Only 36 bottles available

Serpico, the flagship Mitolo Cabernet, is made using the Amarone technique of drying grapes before fermentation. This process concentrates flavour contributing mid palate plushness, complexity and mouth coating yet silky tannins. It’s a unique wine that is rich and structured yet has the balance of elements crucial to the Mitolo style. Fruit for Serpico comes from the Lopresti vineyard, and more specifically the Chinese Block, which is located at the southern end of McLaren Vale about 3km east of the coastal town of Port Willunga. The Cabernet in this vineyard is planted on black Biscay clay which along with the ideal Mediterranean climate produces wines of concentrated varietal character.

96 Points - Angus Hughson, Wine Pilot.  “You’d think they were crazy making an Amarone style from cabernet sauvignon. Amarone is one of Italy’s greatest wines made from dried grapes which concentrate the flavours and tannins to create long lived wines. This is a gorgeous wine, and my pick of the current new releases, which packs a serious punch. The colour is deep suggesting a big dense style but the wine is surprisingly light on its feet. Sweet, pure and vibrant blackcurrant fruits are tempered by dried herbs with some sweeter blackberry underneath. Oak is there too but sits in the background. This then leads to a bold and explosive palate full of power and energy – fruit pastille flavours are supported by fine acidity that is all underpinned by significant but well handled tannins. It is soooooo long too with the fruit concentration holding that flavour for minutes. A delicious wine stacked full of personality that is hard to put down.”

96 Points - Sam Kim, Wine Orbit. “The wine shows stunning fruit purity as well as seductive complexity with cassis, sweet plum, tobacco and spicy oak characters. It’s impressively concentrated and persistent, displaying awesome power brilliantly structured by loads of fine tannins. Multi-layered and graceful. At its best: 2024 to 2039.”

£42.95 per bottle

2018 Angela 100% McLaren Vale Shiraz

Only 36 bottles available

The Style: Angela is a slightly different expression of Shiraz which is sourced from Sandra’s block, located about 5km south of the Chinese Block we use for our G.A.M. Shiraz. We have always used grapes from Sandra’s block as a blending component in our Jester Shiraz but as this vineyard has matured, it has shown its potential to stand alone as a single vineyard wine. We have always loved the slightly brighter fruit profile and complete structure that we get from Sandra’s block. It has the ideal power and weight to sit between our Jester Shiraz and premium G.A.M. Shiraz. Angela is lifted with pure, ripe berry flavours at the forefront and subtle oak, allowing the fruit flavours to shine.

95 Points - Sam Kim, Wine Orbit “Fabulously ripe and offering excellent fruit purity, the wine shows perfumed aromas of black/blueberry, violet, dark cocoa and roasted nut on the nose with a hint of spicy overtone. The palate displays superb concentration and richly textured mouthfeel, wonderfully supported by fleshy texture and velvety tannins, making it delectably satisfying.”

£24.50 per bottle

2018 7th Son 62% Grenache, 32% Shiraz, 6% Sagrantino

Only 36 bottles available

Seventh Son Grenache Shiraz is quite a different wine for Mitolo and a commitment to the McLaren Vale region and its most revered varieties. The Grenache portion, sourced from old bush vines off the sands of Blewitt Springs, provides rustic, lighter, earthier flavours than the fruit forward, softer Shiraz portion sourced from the Lopresti vineyards. When blended together though these opposites provide a great foil for each other, creating a complex and intriguing wine. There is no new oak influence in this wine, with older oak barrels chosen for the èlevage. The tannins are sandy, almost gritty, helped along by the tiny dollop of Sagrantino, a little Italian twist on a classic blend from southern France and McLaren Vale. This is a wine made more in the earthy style of the wines of Mitolos European heritage, yet still speaks loudly of place, McLaren vale, with its generosity and purity.

95 Points - Angus Hughson, Wine Pilot “This is an unusual blend but it absolutely sings thanks to the combination of plush fruit from grenache and shiraz with the rustic flair of sagrantino. The wine is deeply coloured and flavoured with expressive fruits – blackberry, baked earth and dark cherry, all well integrated with sweet oak. The palate is then full-bodied and power-packed; luscious fruit kept in check by leathery complexity and a slight acid kick before a long and supple finish. A great drink now and over the next five years or so.”

£25.95 per bottle

Also now on our shelves…

New from Orin Swift – 8 Years in the Desert

£38.95 per bottle

New from Majella

Sparkling Shiraz 2020

Only 57 bottles available

£26.95 per bottle

Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River

New Releases from the Art Series Collection

Pre-Release : ETA August 2022

Today marks the long-awaited UK release of new vintages of the Art Series from Leeuwin Estate, one of the undisputed ‘First Growths’ of Australian wine. The Art Series represents the pinnacle of the estate’s production – and continues to set the gold standard for Western Australian Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Riesling and, most famously, Chardonnay.

Since its inception in 1969, Leeuwin has spearheaded Margaret River’s ascent from obscurity (in the Sixties, ‘Margs’ was best known for logging, dairy farming and, by surfers, for its epic left-hand breaks) to the top tier of global wine growing regions. The ambition of founders Denis and Tricia Horgan was fed not by hubris or naivety, but by their belief in the potential of the terroir here – a belief based on studies by viticulturalists including Dr Harold Olmo of UC Davis – and a healthy dose of the ‘can do’ attitude that has shaped much of Australia’s winemaking history.

Today’s release encompasses three high-quality vintages, notably 2019 (for the Shiraz and Chardonnay). A cold, wet winter in ‘19 delayed flowering and replenished the estate’s dams. Flowering took place in pristine conditions, with clear blue skies and cool nights which persisted until after Christmas. Further rain at the end of January revitalised the vines, and accounts in part for the scintillating freshness of the 2019s. Riesling was the first varietal harvested in the final week of February; Chardonnay followed in early-March, and the reds from mid-April.

Yet to be sampled by international critics, the 2019 Art Series Chardonnay has garnered rave reviews from the Australian wine press. It was awarded 98 points by Erin Larkin (Halliday Wine Companion), while Ray Jordan awards 99 points and comments, the 2019 ‘will rank up there with the best to date.’ Jordan’s review of the ‘effortlessly graceful’ 2019 Shiraz was equally glowing. These two 2019s are released alongside the vibrant 2021 Riesling, and Cabernet from the outstanding 2018 vintage.

In October, we announced of the results of the ‘Judgement of Napa’ tasting. This extraordinary event held in California, invited guests to taste twenty great wines (ten Chardonnays and ten Cabernet Sauvignon/blends) in a blind tasting. Leeuwin Estate 2018 Art Series Chardonnay was included in the Chardonnay bracket, alongside Premier Cru/Grand Cru Burgundies and leading Californian Chardonnays – the line-up was impressive and super-expensive.

The 2018 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay was ranked in 1st place, topping the Chardonnay tasting for both tasting panels, comprising some 35 public tasters and eight wine experts, which is an extraordinary achievement and firmly placed this wine as one of the world’s greatest Chardonnays.  In light of this, last year’s offer met with enormous demand and we expect even greater interest this time around. 

Please can we ask you to checkout separately with your Leeuwin pre-release wines as these will be shipped or transferred when the stock arrives with us in August.  If you wish to order other wines for immediate delivery, please complete a separate order for these and we’ll process these as usual.