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Free delivery over £100 (excludes under bond wines) Same day dispatch up to 12 noon (Mon-Thur) No Minimum order One Man’s Dream… Following an unfathomable number of global tastings -1 August 2024 sees the new Penfolds collection released to the world market. Over the years, the collection has grown considerably and now includes wines produced in California, France and of course, China. The story of Grange began when creator, Max Schubert took a trip to Bordeaux in 1950, where a wine ‘capable of staying alive for a minimum of twenty years’ first entered his mind. On his return to Australia, Max began experimenting with Shiraz fruit from Magill Estate and Morphett Vale. Combining tradition, new ideas from Bordeaux and scientist Ray Beckwith’s groundbreaking findings, Max crafted his first experimental Grange in 1951 – named after ‘Grange Cottage.’ His first experimental vintage (1951) began a new way of thinking that would eventually lead to a signature wine style, but not before Grange was discredited and Max Schubert was forced to make the wine in secrecy. 1957 marked a critical juncture in Grange’s evolution and Max’s dream. A tasting for senior management and wine experts rendered unfavourable criticism, leading to Grange’s dismissal by the Penfolds board. Undeterred, Max persevered. He embarked on a secret endeavour at the Magill underground cellars, and in partnership with Jeffrey Penfold Hyland, three ‘hidden’ Grange vintages (1957, 1958, 1959) were produced. By 1960, the board recognised the value of wine aging, and Grange was reinstated. The word ‘icon’ is overused and certainly in the wine world however, Penfolds Grange was something very special indeed and deserved such acclaim. Today, I am less convinced. There is no question over the wine's quality and the pricing certainly sits at the top of the tree however, there’s a new, vanguard group of Aussie winemakers who are pushing quality and styles to a new level. I believe Max would be smiling down on these producers as this was the entire point of Grange. Perhaps I am being a romantic old fool, but as a collector of Australian wine for 30-years, and a longtime supporter of Penfolds, I feel they have lost their way with their obsessional focus on China.  I acknowledge the commercial realities as Treasury Wine Estates Limited is a giant of the industry. Staffing sits around 2,500, 10,100 hectares are planted and turnover for 2023 is reported around 2.4 billion. Shareholders demand results which the company is firmly beholden to. Specifically to Penfolds, China is their golden goose. Without China, and clearly demonstrated when they imposed crippling tariffs, sales and profits fell through the floor. Selling wine on Bordeaux Le Place is simply a façade as most of the wines are shipped off to Asia. Previously (2017), we sold our entire allocation into Hong Kong as UK customers showed little to no interest. In the space of three-months – one buyer purchased £160,000 worth of Penfolds. The requested range being limited to predominantly their bin numbers. Grange was not wanted. We sold it off at cost and parcelled-up the icon with a container full of bin numbers. Treasury UK could not sell their iconic Grange either, which is an extraordinary position. All merchants / brokers, who queued like greedy beggars were forced into taking an allocation. Without Grange – Bin 389 and 128 would not be available, and these were the wines which Hong Kong and China consumed for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Save for the odd case – the UK’s entire Penfolds allocation was sent straight to Hong Kong… Everyone knew the score, and everyone played the game. "There are many Aussie comparables which offer much better value for money. Sadly, Penfolds no longer feels special to me." Today, the cost of the new collection is beyond daft and clearly fails to recognise the world outside of China, and that’s cracking under enormous volumes of stock (pre the tariffs). Grange @ $1,000 per bottle, Bin 707 @ $800, Bin 389 @ $120 (Standish levels), Bin 169 @ $300, Bin 180 @ $1,180, Howell Mountain (US) Cab Sauv / Cab Franc @ $450… The list goes on. There are more bin numbers than private number plates. Time moves on and the world has changed considerably since the 1950s and 60s however, and personally, I am saddened by the annual spectacle. I have been to a pre-launch tasting hosted by the enigmatic and tireless Peter Gago – the wines are great, but what’s the point in attending? There wasn’t as, and by and large, the wines were too expensive for most in the UK. There are many Aussie comparables which offer much better value for money. Sadly, Penfolds no longer feels special to me. Instead, it feels like a circus set-up for the press and perhaps an exercise to keep the shareholders happy. But, if we’re being completely honest, Penfolds would sell the same volume of wine if they stopped the global circus which must cost a small fortune… After all, much of it is predominantly heading to one country. Oliver's Taranga HJ Reserve Shiraz 2020  A snippet… Demand for HJ Reserve Shiraz is understandably high. The fruit is sourced from the ‘Old Block’, planted by HJ Oliver back in 1948. Half of this block goes to Penfolds Grange Growers Club and the rest goes into this beauty… Don stresses, “We are not trying to make Grange at Oliver’s Taranga.” Grange is a marriage of many wonderful components and utilises American oak whereas HJ Reserve is partnered with the softer, French oak. As you would expect, the quality of fruit is of the very highest standard, translating into a superb bottle of McLaren Vale Shiraz (albeit rather cheaper than a $1,000 bottle of Grange) We are delighted to offer the 2020 HJ Reserve Shiraz which we sampled this week. The wine is laying at the winery and will be shipped once our offer closes The wines will be immediately shipped with an ETA of November / December 2024. SOLD OUT Available as a three pack inclusive of VAT, duty and delivery @ £119.85 Only 24 three bottle packs available "Impeccable wine and immensely enjoyable. Wonderful, in a word.” Stuart McCloskey "Sampled over two days as I was keen to see the wine’s development with controlled aeration. It feels and drinks better using Zalto’s Burgundy glass rather than their Bordeaux. Personal preference I suppose. Such an impressive bouquet, in coastal liquid form. The unmistakable salty, almost fruity scent of fresh seaweed. I can imagine the fragrances arriving on a gust of sea air. This is brooding, finessed, addictive to those who enjoy sniffing, and it feels so healthy. I am detecting a whiff of grandma’s perfume – wet lavender, perhaps? There’s fresh cedar, spice, fresh bay leaf, clove, wet stones, coconut, ripe plum and blueberry. There’s a lot happening and I urge you to spend time with the aromatics. The palate has beautiful form. So shapely and caressing. The fruit ripeness is exquisite and without being overdone. A whisper of vanilla adds to the decadence. Ripe plums along with the yin and yang of mixed red and blue fruits combine well. There’s lots of spice, black tea and a citrus bite from blood orange peel. The French oak provides tightness – this is packed with freshness and salinity. Impeccable wine and immensely enjoyable. Wonderful, in a word. Drink now (decant for 3-5 hours) and enjoy over the next 10-15 years." Wine & Vintage courtesy of Oliver’s Taranga “2020 was a challenging vintage in a challenging world. There was a significant lack of rain through winter and spring, and an early heat spike during grape set that resulted in loss of crop. Hence, 2020 was an extremely low tonnage vintage, with the added bonus of a global pandemic! Thankfully what quantity we lost was more than made up for by the superb quality, so our loss is your gain. It just means there's much less to go round...” The longer read which we believe is worth a few minutes of your time… Unlike many of Europe’s wineries who craft wines from vines on their own estates – Australia has a long history of fruit growers who produce high-quality grapes, which are sold-off to wine producers. Single site wines are less revered. Instead, and making perfect sense, sourcing grapes from different growers can often produce a better wine. Of course, you spread the risk should grapes from one site be affected by mother nature. In 1996, Penfolds introduced the Grange Growers Club for the elite group of growers who supply grapes for one of Australia’s most revered wines. The success of Grange, and much of the Penfolds collection is the emphasis placed on fruit quality and the role of the grower. While Penfolds has significant vineyard resources, its success has been just as much due to working with grape-growers across South Australia, many who farm significantly old vines. “The ambition for growers to ‘make Grange’ certainly has a top-down flow-on effect to all our premium wines,” says Peter Gago. “Relegation or cascading of aspiring parcels that almost attain lofty quality and style goals benefits those wines below.” Don Oliver from Oliver's Taranga was one of the founding members and a producer we previously stocked. In their own words, “Six generations of stubborn, competitive growers and one equally spirited winemaker – that’s the Oliver family. Living smack bang in the middle of McLaren Vale, the family flourish on producing perfect parcels of fruit on their 100 hectare ‘Taranga’ property.” A few years back, Don was interviewed and asked, ‘How did you start to grow fruit for Penfolds?’ “We were originally Wynns growers, then once the Wynns label was purchased by Penfolds in 1985, we became Penfolds Growers. We have stayed with them throughout all the changes in ownership since then. Prior to 1996 we would try to get more tonnage. Penfolds came out around this time to help us improve our fruit. It was about the time they introduced an incentive scheme, we would get a little more money if we grew better fruit. They bought out a neutron moisture probe. They measured the soil moisture, and gave us the measurements. In those days we had relatively recently changed some of the blocks over to drippers. Prior to that, we had a soaker hose that we had to move from row to row- pretty physical work! Once we got some of the neutron probe measurements we changed everything over to drippers. That was when I started to learn to grow grapes properly. It is all about stressing them at the right time of the year. We would have liked a neutron probe ourselves, but the early technology was radioactive and quite dangerous so you needed a license to operate it. Technology has moved on now and we have constant moisture loggers. We have them on about 12 sites, where we measure the moisture by putting a probe down a hole. It was all a learning curve. In 1997, I nearly fried the vines on the block that made Grange in 96. I tried to repeat the year before, however in 97 they had double the crop load and I learned very quickly that you had to adjust the level of moisture depending on the crop. Luckily the other block made it. You need to know your moisture but most importantly you need to learn to look at the vine. The guys from Penfolds helped us a lot in the early days.”  Don Oliver : Viticulturist You have received Penfolds Triple Crown Grange Growers perpetual trophy. What’s that all about? “It’s an award Penfolds give to their most successful growers. It recognises vineyards that have had their grapes used in the Grange for three years in a row. We are the first from McLaren Vale to achieve it for vintages 2012, 2013 & 2014. I love being able to contribute fruit for such an iconic Australian wine. It makes me very proud and I feel that aiming for Penfold’s Grange really drives the quality of the entire vineyard forward every year. We are super lucky that the generations before us decided to settle on this land in McLaren Vale, it has turned out to be extraordinary dirt for growing high quality grapes, I only wish that they would put McLaren Vale on the label one day, instead of just South Australia.” Unquestionably, the Grange Growers Club has pushed-up the quality of fruit at Oliver’s Taranga as the key to quality is driven by instituting prices based on the land under vine, not the yield. To make the grade for Grange, a focus on low yields and quality over quantity is essential. While some of those growers have remained in the background, many others have also transitioned to become makers themselves. Notably, the one we are sharing today who remain one of the most important contributors to Grange, while now also making highly respected wine under their own label. Today, Don Oliver takes charge in the vineyard, while his niece, Corinna Wright, established the family’s winemaking business. Their contract grape operation remains fundamental to the family’s operation and continues to supply grapes to some of Australia’s most famous bottlings including Eileen Hardy Shiraz, d’Arenberg ‘Dead Arm’, Wirra Wirra ‘Angelus’, Penfolds ‘St. Henri’, Penfolds ‘407’ and Penfolds ‘389’. Don stresses that it is not just about the health of the fruit at harvest that matters, but rather about what ends up in bottle. To that end, they taste wines from across the site to connect their practices to the wines that are made. “Winemaker and viticulturist work together,” Don says. “Whatever is needed to get the best quality in each block, we do it. It is not a one-size-fits-all mentality; each variety and block have decisions made on it individually. I work closely with Corrina as well as the other winemakers that buy our grapes. The Penfolds team are always in the vineyard in the lead up to harvest. We work with our wineries to understand what they are looking for in their wines, and tailor to that. Penfolds want something different to Oliver’s Taranga who are different to another one of our producers. The Oliver’s Taranga wines are made only from their own vineyard using natural yeasts with very minimal additions. “The idea is to ensure that the wines represent the vineyard 100 per cent,” says Don. “That’s why we work with drought and heat-tolerant varieties with high natural acidity. We have been grape growers for 180 years, and winemakers only since 1994, so it is always all about the grapes and the season. Each wine is a snapshot of a certain vintage in our place, documenting another year on our property, and I love that.” Demand for HJ Reserve Shiraz is understandably high. The fruit is sourced from the ‘Old Block,’ planted by HJ Oliver back in 1948. Half of this block goes to Penfolds Grange Growers Club and the rest goes into this beauty… Don stresses “We are not trying to make Grange at Oliver’s Taranga”. Grange is a marriage of many wonderful components and utilises American oak whereas HJ Reserve is partnered with the softer, French oak. As you would expect, the quality of fruit is of the very highest standard, translating into a superb bottle of McLaren Vale Shiraz (albeit rather cheaper than a $1,000 bottle of Grange). The link to Penfolds Grange continues…  "Songlines has a marvellous intensity of 100-year-old Shiraz fruit, with none of the heaviness of some Australian Icon wines, a superb wine. Perhaps the Latour of the McLaren Vale." 19.5 / 20 Points, Steven Spurrier From the legendary John Duval (29 years with Penfolds, including 16 years as their Chief Winemaker). In 2004, John took his extensive experience gained at Penfolds, including the intimate knowledge of South Australia’s best sites and together with winemaker David Fatches from Hunter Valley, they embarked on a brand new venture called Songlines. Songlines fruit comes from the 40 to 110 year old, flawless Shiraz vineyards in the McLaren Vale, one of the oldest and best established of the wine growing regions of South Australia. These vines have in the past provided grapes for some of Australia‘s most famous wines, including Penfolds Grange. However, the uncompromising selection of individual vineyards means this is the first time their grapes have been assembled as a single wine. Songlines is a spectacular and individual, hand-crafted wine produced with rigorous care and attention. The winemaking behind Songlines is extremely complicated as no individual vineyard parcel is given the same complete treatment. Each vineyard is separated into a minimum of two discrete batches for fermentation, often more, and different techniques applied to each. In truth, many great techniques are used, all depending on the individual batch and what is required by the grapes. The decision is made at the time of harvest and not predetermined by a recipe. The result is an amazing process which builds layers of complexity into Songlines and allows for development in years to come. The inaugural 2004 vintage release is extremely rare and we are currently the only world merchant to list the wine (albeit, a handful of bottles).
Songlines  99 Points - Stuart McCloskey “Great Hermitage in the guise of an Australian Shiraz. Explosive aromas of chocolate, smoked game, warm earth and saddle leather. The palate is silky sweet, exquisitely balanced, sensuous, with melting tannins. If I had to be succinct, flawless and polished to perfection. More feminine than I recall with animally fruit emerging with more time in the glass as does olive tapenade and garrigue. Almost perfect, highly addictive and a wine to make you fall in love with Australian Shiraz all over again. In short, I am at a loss for words. One to cherish!” Decanted for 2-3 hours and served using Zalto Bordeaux glassware”. Sampled March 2019 £60.00 per bottle SOLD OUT  "Quintessentially Rhône and a very good example too… This feels so sexy whilst providing ample freshness."  2022 LA COMBE PILATE Michel Chapoutier, the biodynamic pioneer of the region. 100% Viognier Only £16.50 per bottle Stuart McCloskey “A fantastic wine from the get-go and shows Viognier in the very best light. The bouquet feels like summer in a glass (albeit a tad reticent). Ripe apricots lead the way followed by honey, fresh fennel, pear, quince, bee pollen, spring blossom, which are all juxtaposed with minerality (wet stones), cold steel and citrus. Wonderful textural appeal and, if I am being perfectly honest, drinks much better than I was expecting (apologies, Michel). There’s richness, palate filling viscosity - quintessentially Rhône and a very good example too… This feels so sexy whilst providing ample freshness. Flavours are long and broaden out to honeysuckle, ripe orchard fruits, lashings of minerality, anise, along with bountiful acidity which keeps those opulent flavours in-check. Fleshy, ample (at its most controlled) and very moreish. Of course, there’s quality for this to cellar however, I like where she is today. Highly recommended… Served using Zalto’s Universal stem.” Winemaking: Direct pressing of the whole bunches. Selection of the best juices from the pressing. Light settling. Fermentation followed by 8-9 months ageing in stainless vats. Undergoes malolactic fermentation. Very light stirring up of the lees (batonnage) during the first months of ageing. Knowledge: Collines Rhodaniennes is the IGP title for red, white and rosé wines from an area which essentially corresponds to the northern Rhône Valley wine region of eastern France. The catchment area for this title stretches from Lyon in the north to Montélimar in the south. The area is also home to some of southern France's most famous AOC appellations, including Côte Rôtie, Condrieu and Hermitage. As its name suggests, a Protected Geographical Indication (IGP), refers to the characteristics of a wine that are directly linked to the geographical area of its production and processing.  Back in Stock "This is overwhelmingly underpriced… “I would happily pay double and perhaps a little more”  Villa Maria Reserve Albarino 2022 Stuart McCloskey “Albariño and skin-contact Malvasia are my guilty, wine pleasures. I seek-out both varietals (with some bottle age) during the winter months and gorge on them over the summer. Nothing beats a long, hard day’s work in the garden followed by a grippy, textural wine that puts the tingles back into my tired bones… Salty sea spray is a classic characteristic of Albariño however, at the other end of the spectrum comes an exoticism of fruit and texture which is what I look for. The bouquet is fabulously inviting (I opted for the Zalto Bordeaux glass) with orange peel, ripe peach, mango, lychee, orchard fruits, alpine herbs and sea spray. Tick, tick, tick – thank you very much. The palate provides a voluminous profile whilst retaining the varietal’s tautness. The fattiness of the fruit is immediately put in line with a smack of salty freshness. Super long and addictive. Good God – I could easily decant a bottle and take it out on my bike for a 50-miler. I would come back slightly inebriated, but my palate would be refreshed! A flavourful continental Albariño – the old world varietal with the new world style. There’s much to like and there’s nothing to criticise. Of course, you cannot drink a price-tag, but this is overwhelmingly underpriced… “I would happily pay double and perhaps a little more” he says with a hand on his vinous heart. Drink now to 2028…" Special 6 pack price - £9.94 per bottle  |
