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It seems fitting to use this weekend to cover common wine faults along with a few misconceptions. It’s a worthy read as it will arm you with important facts… Clearly, this article is born from Monday’s sampling of the 2014 & 2015 wines from Powell & Son. Let’s look at the problem and why we rejected over 300-bottles. We are fanatical about sampling which covers two, important aspects. One: Does the style of wine meet our / your expectations. Two: Regardless of age – is the wine in good shape and free from obvious faults, which will be covered during my article. In this instance, the UK importer had been sitting on these wines since their respective arrival into the UK (almost a decade). Contact was made with the following description, “all bottles/levels/condition are perfect and having tried them several weeks ago, they are huge-still very youthful and full of Torbreck signatures, as expected.” I know the importer, I have previously sampled and sold Dave Powell wines, and I also know they require substantial bottle age prior to drinking. Accordingly, and based on these facts, we purchased the parcel. The cases arrived at our HQ warehouse (last Thursday).  “All bottles/levels/condition are perfect.” We QC’d each case and ullage levels were in good order. What is ‘Ullage’? As pictured above, it is a wine term that describes the amount headspace between the closure and the liquid inside a wine bottle. In this case – all wines were showing ‘high fill into neck.’ As wines age, one expects the levels to drop however, when wines reach numbers 6, 7 & 8 – concerns move to ‘storage conditions of said wine’ That said, ‘mid-shoulder’ is not abnormal for a 30 to 40-year-old wine. Upon sampling, it was clearly evident these wines had been subjected to extreme temperature fluctuations. Given the producer and age of these wines – tawny brown colouration was not expected. The bouquet was another giveaway – jammy / overtly sugary / reduced brown sugar aromas / smelling similar to a poorly made Madeira wine. The taste was similar – again, obviously sweet, dull and lacking acidity. We use the term ‘maderised’ which broadly encompasses how Maderia wines are made. Essentially, the wine undergoes a heating process, which provides its distinct aromas and flavour profile. This is not a fault for Maderia, but this is a major fault for a still red or white wine. In short, the wine had been ‘cooked’ which was evident in these bottles. Undoubtedly, the person selling these wines either doesn’t have a clue or lacks professional courtesy (or both) as his assertion that “condition are perfect and having tried them several weeks ago, they are huge-still very youthful and full of Torbreck signatures, as expected” is a pure fantasy. To prevent wine from becoming cooked / heat damaged / maderised, wines must be stored at a cool temperature and away from direct sunlight. Most importantly, is the consistency of the storage temperature with peaks during the summer and troughs during the winter damaging wine and accelerating their longevity. Not all UK bonded warehouses are temperature controlled, and these wines have endured some super-hot UK summers and cold winters resulting in them being ‘cooked’. As you can imagine – my communication to the importer is less than friendly. Moreover, I have told them not to sell these wines into the UK market. I shall be keeping a very careful eye on offers coming from other merchants. Advice: Avoid all Dave Powell & Son wines from 2014 to 2015 unless the seller can demonstrate they were moved into temperature-controlled storage upon their respective arrival. Remember - not all UK bonded warehouses are temperature-controlled. The Vinorium only uses one bonded warehouse, LCB Eton Park (formerly known as Vinotheque). All client reserves are stored here. This is the finest facility and perfect environment, free from vibration, UV and daylight with bespoke temperature and humidity controls ideal for fine wine storage and maturation.  Corked Wine… Don’t be a complete plonker and inform the pourer that ‘it’s corked’ when the wine poured has come from a stelvin / screwcap closure. I have heard it for myself and it’s cringe-able. The facts: The main compound responsible for cork taint is 2,4,6-trichloroanisole. It is one of the most odour intense compounds known and has a distinct musty, mouldy aroma. As cork is a natural product from the cork oak it is subject to microbial contamination and its quality is dependent on good agricultural practices and quality control during processing, transport, and storage. Much research has taken place as this was an endemic problem (less widespread these days). Expensive corks, as used by the Standish Wine Company, have shown to eliminate this problem. We have sold over 20,000 bottles and not one wine has been ‘corked’ Some tasters can detect tiny traces of TCA whereas others are happy to proceed and unaffected. Do not feel afraid to speak-out if you believe the wine to be corked (distinct musty and mouldy aroma). I will discuss screw cap closures shortly… Wine Oxidation Basics In some wines, oxidation is used to create an effect or to ensure that the wine conforms to a particular style. The Jura region of France being a case in point. Traditionally, the region's uniqueness came from the oxidative style of its white wines, which I am very partial to. Some of the best Chardonnays are produced here however, and at the other end, it’s a misstep that leads to a spoiled bottle. When oxidation is a fault, the wine (both for red and white) loses vibrancy in both colour and flavour. Whites begin to brown, and reds become russet to orange. However, you must consider the age of the wine / the style of the wine (see above) / where it’s been stored etc… Let’s take a classic 2020 Margaret River Chardonnay for example… Positives and what you should be seeing: Bright colour and flavours. Full of life. Primary fruits and acidity, feels frisky and perky. Negatives: Dull and browning colours. Overtly nutty and savoury. Generally, tasting muted and flat. Think sherry-esque. Oxidation can start in the vineyard. The second a grape skin is ruptured, and the fruit and juice are exposed to air – oxidation begins, and this ends up in the glass. Equally, oxygen might naturally enter wine aged in traditional barrels or in concrete eggs, but these are normally under controlled conditions. Maturation in stainless steel tanks avoids oxygen getting in. Additionally, a faulty cork may allow too much air to enter the bottle and affect the wine, which opens-up another can of worms. Is my wine corked (TCA) or oxidised?… Familiarising yourself with these basics is worthy knowledge in my books. Of course, and keeping to basics, leaving a bottle of wine open for too long can cause it to become oxidised. A Chardonnay stored in the fridge tasted great on Monday, but muted / flat by Wednesday. This is oxidation, my friends. This tastes like vinegar? Essentially, if wine is exposed to air for too long, a wine can become oxidised to the point that the acetaldehyde converts to acetic acid, turning the wine to vinegar. Misconceptions… The foil on my wine bottle is damaged which will let oxygen in. Rats in cellars were also known to enjoy gnawing on corks, thus destroying the wine. The solution was to cover the cork with a lead capsule / foil. I believe most wine foils were lead based until 1996, when the United States and Europe outlawed lead in many applications. Today, it is accepted that foils are a decorative feature. Moreover, they do not prevent oxidation. That is the sole job of the cork. Some winemakers have eliminated foils, believing they are no longer relevant. They are costly for the producer, and end up in landfills, which is bad for the environment.  Wine always gets better with age. An incorrect assumption as there are so many variances at play. Storage conditions being paramount. Vintage quality. An off-year / poor quality harvest is replicated in the bottle. The longer you leave it – the worse it’s going to get. Some grape varieties and styles of winemaking are best enjoyed in their youth. How you like it served – do you prefer your wine to be driven by primary fruits and packed with freshness? If that’s you – drink them young. Conversely, you can’t beat the tertiary flavours of a great bottle of ‘aged’ wine however, remember all the pointers… You should never chill red wine. Baloney. Light-to-medium-bodied reds drink fabulously when lightly chilled although, do consider tannin levels. Think Pinot Noir / Gamay (Beaujolais). I often plunge my ‘lighter’ reds into an ice bucket for 15-20 minutes. A shrill of iced water is sublime on a warm sunny day. I do not advocate chilling Shiraz however, sparkling Shiraz throws another curve ball into the mix. Placing wines onto one’s Aga for a few hours before pouring is a no-no. It’s too warm / hot and accentuates the alcohol and jammy notes. Remember – think Maderia, albeit in a few hours. Personally, and professionally, I prefer to sample all my reds on the ‘cooler’ side of room temperature. Warm to touch is too warm. Keep it cool. Cheap wines can be excellent in quality. If you are referring to wines that costs £6 per bottle than it’s balderdash as the vast majority of the cost does not go into the wine. In fact, it’s circa 21-pence for a five-quid bottle, 70-pence for something around £6.50 and £1.40 for a bottle around the £7.50 mark. UK duty, VAT, shipping, packaging, profit margins etcetera make-up the vast majority of the cost. Screwcap closures The screw cap wine closure ‘Stelcap-vin’ (-vin implying use for table wines) was developed and trademarked in 1959 by a French manufacturing company, La Bouchage Mecanique. In 1970, Australian Consolidated Industries obtained the licence to manufacture Stelcap closures within Australia, shortening the name to ‘Stelvin™’ in 1978 to identify the Australian development. Global trials with the screw cap were widely undertaken during the 1970s and were reinvigorated in the late 1990s by New Zealand winemakers and Clare Valley Riesling producers. Unquestionably, this style of wine closure has become prominent, and has certainly reduced the number of faulty wines sold around the world today. Wine trials have proven their ability to provide a safe closure to aid long cellaring. Today, the technology has improved markedly with many winemakers moving away from traditional closures. That said, many producers do not want to move away from cork and foils – Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne etcetera. Heaven forbid the act of twisting open a screwcap on a bottle of Château Latour! Equally, the pomp and ceremony of a sommelier surgically removing a cork from an expensive bottle will be lost. Far too many producers are also of the mindset that a screwcap closure devalues their wine. Key markets too – China does not like them one bit. Penfolds, for example, bottle some ‘bin’ wines under stelvin and the same wine under cork (just for China). Personally, the science is against them. Moreover, the science has proven to show a substantial reduction in bottle variation, zero TCA (of course) and years of longevity ahead. All-in-all, better for the buyer, who and after all, is the one parting with their money. I finish with a true story which I published back in 2018, which captures the essence of today’s mini-lesson… Wishing you all a great weekend, First published: May 2018 Château Mouton Rothschild and its  There are magnificent wines and then there is 1945 Château Mouton Rothschild. For me this is the greatest wine I have and most probably will ever taste. So, when the call came in to assess, value and potentially purchase an incredibly rare collection of old Moutons containing 1941, 45, 47 and 49 vintages; I packed my bags, booked my flight and headed 11,000 miles across the Atlantic Ocean to Mexico City. Extreme? Perhaps. Crazy, some may say and if truth were known, I can’t really argue. However, this was a once in a lifetime opportunity that I could not decline. Also, we do have an office in the city (closed late 2014) therefore, making the expenditure a little easier to justify to my accountant. I conducted the necessary due diligence regarding the wines provenance and condition prior to my departure and discovered that many bottles remained in the same family for half a century or more. In fact, it is a fascinating story to how these great Bordeaux arrived in Mexico, to keep it brief, the then President of Mexico gifted these wonderful wines to the current owner’s grandfather. I vividly recall the long flight to Mexico City; my excitement was palpable as I sat there thinking about the events happening when these bottles came to fruition. In 1941, World War 2 was at its peak, the Enigma code was broken, and the Imperial Japanese Navy launched a surprise attack on the US fleet at Pearl Harbour, thus drawing the US into World War 2. Consequently, the US, UK & China officially declare war on the Empire of Japan.1945 saw Benito Mussolini and his mistress, Clara Petacci, executed, the Soviet Union announces the fall of Berlin, V-E Day as Nazi Germany surrender, the horrific Atomic bombing of Hiroshima, Winston Churchill resigns as Prime Minister and September saw World War 2 come to an end. On arriving at the office where the wine could be assessed I was, to my horror, led to a small cupboard where all the bottles lay; this was nothing more than a broom cupboard, no bigger than a large wine rack. There were obvious signs of seepage too – a brown stickiness oozed through some of the wine capsules and the vast majority of labels were neatly stored in a shoebox which posed a further problem regarding identifying the various vintages. Nonetheless, I carefully removed each and every bottle and placed them upright in the air-conditioned office. It was such a shame these historical bottles did not receive the same cooling atmosphere as it was clearly evident that each and every bottle was subjected to hot, dry conditions which had slowly destroyed them over many decades. Prior to my departure I had requested photographs of the bottles – some were sent, and these bottles showed fully intact labels with varying degrees of ullage (referring to the space of air between the wine and bottom of the cork), the vast majority that stood in front of me were not of the same quality. I was asked to open a bottle of the ’41 Mouton, which was a surgical task as the cork was extremely fragile. The nose was attractive and sweet at first but faded quickly once in contact with the atmosphere. I was surprised with the wines structure; firm and medium bodied, there was no sign of fruit. Instead, the ’41 was lean, rustic and offered little if any enjoyment. Years of bad cellaring had taken the wine’s life away and left behind only a shadow of its former self. Naturally, the owner was keen for my approval and valuation for his prized collection. Simply put, a collection of this historical rarity and size would easily command over one hundred and fifty thousand pounds. However, in this condition, I would not part with five hundred pounds. I left empty handed, a little numb, but I found solace in a few good bottles of wine at one of Mexico’s top restaurants, Biko (their equivalent to El Buli – very good by the way). And the moral of this tale is, please store your wine correctly.   "It's great to see such quality although, no surprise, given the pedigree behind the winemaker. Fans of Bruce’s Artus and Purus will enjoy this wine immensely."  Cape Landing Blackwood Chardonnay 2020 Stuart McCloskey "This is my third sample bottle (the first being over a year ago). The additional bottle age is starting to present the wine in all its splendour. That said, it’s built for the long haul and will age beautifully to 2030. The bouquet unfurls to subtle, toasty oak, a decent lick of sea salt, preserved lemon, fresh apple skin, yuzu and fennel. The wine presents a composed proposition – it expands slowly and will not rush for anyone. Wonderfully polished and graceful. I like the shape, the form and palate feel. The flavour spectrum sits on the side of ‘savoury’ (nutty, biscuity and briny). Acidity is measured and provides juicy attack and great framework. Incredible length and detail. It's great to see such quality although, no surprise, given the pedigree behind the winemaker. Fans of Bruce’s Artus and Purus will enjoy this wine immensely. Served using Zalto Burgundy glassware. Don’t overchill." £27.95 per bottle SAVING £23.48 Also available under bond  "She’s interesting, she will get people talking and she’s just outright delicious."  Domaine Naturaliste Floris Chardonnay 2021 Stuart McCloskey “The bouquet is dreamy and works a treat with elevenses on a hot day. Almond, fresh fennel, the light scent from grapefruit, yuzu, lemon zest, a salty spritz of ocean spray, a kiss of jasmine which falls away to flint. I do admire Bruce’s calming style. It’s such a difficult quality to nail without falling flat. Wouldn’t this be great therapy and best prescribed as a daily timeout? The soothing aromatics, flavours and palate feel would offer comfort to most. Just a thought, mind you! The palate feel keeps you hooked and swaying gently. She’s tender but does deliver lots of flavour, along with creamy texture, and a thrill of acidity. Stone fruits meld to citrus – there’s spice and flint too. Super length. There’s no getting away from the maritime, salty climate which adds another level of sophistication. She’s interesting, she will get people talking and she’s just outright delicious. Drink now to 2028+. I served my sample in Zalto’s Burgundy stem. Try the Universal as it may be the better choice (let me know).” £20.95 per bottle SAVING £17.60 Also available under bond Weekend Specials Offer prices end Monday at 9.00am "Juicy and delicious being two of the best attributes... Exceedingly good and provides lots of wine for the money."  Lange Estate Fifth Generation Shiraz 2021 Stuart McCloskey "Vintage variation is on show and proves Australian wine isn’t a one trick pony. The bouquet unfurls to cherry pie, the sweetest raspberry, blueberry, sweet spice, mint-chocolate, bay leaf, fresh pencil shaving, leather and warm earth. Seaweed too, but more aeration is required to coax this fragrance out. Characterised as ‘medium-bodied’ however, it packs a flavourful punch. Dense, ripe, red and black fruits (too numerous to reference – I love the cloak of anise). There’s lovely shape and form to the wine – the tannins are slender and the acidity thoughtfully delivered. Juicy and delicious being two of the best attributes. A sweet / sour plum compote is the final act. Exceedingly good and yet again, provides lots of wine for the money. Drink now to 2030+. Decanted for an hour and served using Zalto Bordeaux glassware." £24.95 per bottle Also available under bond "Inspired by the great Sangiovese & Cabernet Sauvignon blends of the old world and the first super-premium offering under the Coulter label. The perfume soars with exuberance – wonderfully attractive."  Coulter Wines Sangiovese Cabernet 2021 Stuart McCloskey “Inspired by the great Sangiovese & Cabernet Sauvignon blends of the old world and the first super-premium offering under the Coulter label. The perfume soars with exuberance – wonderfully attractive. Sweet spices provide a warming hug to the plush, ripe fruit (black cherry, raspberry, blueberry and pomegranate). Liquorice moves to cedar, to mint and onto violet and rose petal florals. Sage and rosemary provide a lovely backdrop as does the zip from zesty blood orange. The palate has the sweetest entry which glides to cheek-puckering freshness. Nicely done… The palate feel is silky, fleshy (luxurious I suppose) whilst retaining lots of freshness. Tell-tale blood orange provides sculptured perkiness. Highly attractive. I could see myself enjoying a bottle during a spring afternoon in the sun. Drink now through to 2030. Served using Zalto Bordeaux glassware (just as lovely in the Burgundy glass.” £30.95 per bottle Also available under bond "This will seriously appeal to all those seeking a wine that delivers on the ‘sensual’ side – there isn’t one grain out of place. Wonderful length. Plush and incredibly delicious."  John's Blend Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 Stuart McCloskey “The bouquet reveals calming, and cooling waves of sea kelp, Indian ink, graphite, cassis, liquorice, violet and blackberry pastille, blueberry, raspberry and florals from dried rose petal. There’s a wonderful ‘marine’ influence which really gets me going. The flavours: You literally sink into the glass – texturally, it’s akin to nestling into a velvet sofa. The fruit is sweet, plush and highly addictive – the flavours fan out and cover every facet with crème de cassis, mulberry, blackcurrant, plum and vanilla – oh my word. This will seriously appeal to all those seeking a wine that delivers on the ‘sensual’ side – there isn’t one grain out of place. Wonderful length. Plush and incredibly delicious. You would be wrong if you believe this wine to be OTT. Far from it – wonderful contraction but there’s a lightness too. This is ripe and ready for drinking now but has the quality and structure to age in the cellar for at least a decade. It will be fascinating to see the development in 5-8 years when I feel it will be hitting its stride. Decant for 3-4 hours. We served on the cooler side of room temperature which I recommend. Lovingly consumed using Zalto Bordeaux glassware.” £33.00 per bottle Also available under bond  "This is the kind of Pinot Noir that makes sceptics fall in love with this wonderful varietal."  Jackson Estate Gum Emperor Pinot Noir 2013 Stuart McCloskey "I do love the colour – blood orange melds with dried blood. It’s haunting in its perfume and provides the most welcoming of autumnal hugs. Woodsmoke, forest berries, soused cherry, mushroom broth, soy, dried orange peel, fresh pencil shaving and leather. I do enjoy the exotic lift provided by baked spices along with the important role played by the florals: dried rose, lavender, alpine herbs and fresh mint. Smoked charcuterie with more aeration. The palate feels pure and nourishing – acidity bringing waves of vitality. She’s in a good place and shows no signs of tiredness. Red forest fruits, undergrowth, blood orange, rosemary, oregano, garrigue are meticulously stitched together. Umami at its best… The tannins are long and slender – perhaps a smidgeon of wood dust. This is the kind of Pinot Noir that makes sceptics fall in love with this wonderful varietal. Choose the right day (and mood) and sit back and marvel at its righteousness… Beguiling and simply wonderful to drink from now to 2028. Served using Zalto Burgundy stemware. I did not decant – there’s no need..." £33.00 per bottle "This bridges the old and new worlds beautifully with precision and purity. "  Smith & Sheth CRU Syrah Heretaunga 2017 Stuart McCloskey "Hawke's Bay gravelly soils have a long history of producing exceptional wines that truly represent its terroir. This bridges the old and new worlds beautifully with precision and purity. Intensely fragrant and perfumed aromatics together with spice, tapenade and red liquorice nuances. On the palate, dark berry flavours mix with florals and spice to provide great complexity. Beautifully focused, rich and seamless with a long finish and fine-grained tannins." £33.95 per bottle  2012 Killibinbin Museum Release Cabernet Sauvignon We are sold out 50-cases have arrived in the UK and were delivered to our HQ warehouse on Thursday. We plan to dispatch all orders on Monday 4 November for arrival on the 5th. Please make contact if this date does not suit you. You will receive DPD’s tracking advice on the day of dispatch. As always, you will be able to manage your delivery using the DPD app or website. You can track your order, change the delivery date, add a safe place or another delivery note for the driver. 2022 Standish Collection Has arrived in the UK and is currently making its way to our UK bond, LCB (booking-in date of Friday 25 October). Once receipted and cleared for onward movement, we will begin the task of delivering / transferring all orders. Please sit tight and wait for our general announcement, which is a few weeks away. 2022 Standish stocks: Miniscule quantities are available as we shipped to order this year. Click the link to see what is left.  Shop our current stocks and Save 10% Pre-order Zalto’s new stem ‘Balance’ and save 12.5%   Last chance to buy Lange Estate, Elderton, MMAD and Greenock Creek  |
