Artisans of Barossa Small Batch Graciano 2018

Stuart McCloskey - "Graciano thrives in hot and arid climates and clearly loves the Barossa. Unquestionably, this is the best Aussie example I have enjoyed and after a year of ignoring it (there’s no justification) I am left with a whopping big grin across my face. Putting this into context (given the twenty-quid price tag), this is an outright winner. What a marvellous perfume which fills the glass with blueberry, blackberry pastille, woodsmoke, liquorice, black olive tapenade along with a powerful undercurrent of dried, Mediterranean herbs and iron. One, huge tick for the bouquet – sensational. The palate is sure footed and unapologetic with its style. Rich, but balanced – the fruit mirrors much of the bouquet with pastille-like blue and black fruits. The fruit sweetness is intensely glorious and interestingly not overbearing. The tannins are ripe and rounded and the length is incredible. Ripe fruit leads to a savouriness and that same, cooling iron feel which provides interest and complexity. Every fan of Standish and Utopos will love this – try it and tell me otherwise. What have you to lose as it’s only twenty quid (save for twenty-quid, of course!)? A dream for the money and it’s a joy to drink today but will happily cellar for 10+ years (it’s that good). Decant for 2-3 hours. Served using Zalto Bordeaux glassware. P.S. It includes a dash of Tempranillo (14%). How do you score a wine like this? It’s faultless for the money but you cannot award 98 points, but I know a lot of people who would – are they wrong? Let me know…"