Standish The Standish Shiraz 2021 - In Bond

96 Points - Erin Larkin "The 2021 The Standish Shiraz was made with fruit from the Laycock family vineyard, Greenock, with 30% whole bunches in the ferment. The Standish Shiraz was the first cuvée launched by Dan Standish in 1999, and the wine is routinely typified by its muscular tannin shape and earthy, savory fruit. The most attractive part of this wine is the splay of exotic market spice (namely sumac, black pepper, star anise and fresh cardamom) that sails in on the coattails of the red/purple fruit. It has all the exoticism and romance of a hike through the mountains of Morocco, yet it, perhaps more than any other wine in the collection, speaks of the Barossa in a clear enunciated voice. So, where does it fit in 2021? The 2021 The Standish Shiraz is finer, prettier and lighter than I have ever seen it at this stage of its life. It has all the spice and Barossan identity that is expected; however, it misses the dense baritone of fruit that is present in earlier iterations. Whether you think that is a positive or not is up to you—I am fond of this wine throughout all its incarnations. Vintage variation is responsible for the spark of curiosity and joy that I experience every year during this release, and the real triumph in 2021 is the ability of the vineyard (this vineyard) to shine through the season that shaped it."

I love drinking wine and greet each, new Standish vintage with much excitement. It’s a special occasion which demands respect and preparation. I couldn’t imagine sampling the collection outside of my small office.  I believe I create the conditions to truly appreciate each, new collection. I sit (admittedly on and off) with just the four wines – proper professional attention. Distracting surroundings are a non-event. Each wine takes hours to sample. Some / many will believe this is unnecessary however, I respectfully disagree. These wines are in their developing infancy and require several decades to provide a full picture.

Each wine constantly evolves which makes tasting notes accurate to the time of that event. Of course, there is nothing wrong with conveying that moment of time however, I have attempted to paint the fuller picture, albeit starting with the first chapter, the final one being written in full maturity – some 30-40 years from now.

2021 is a unique vintage and unlike any Standish wine I have sampled (bearing in mind we have sold several cuvees since the ’05 vintage). The vintage can be defined by breadth, depth, muscularity, precision, detail and a salty savouriness which waves a magic wand across the quartet. Collectors will delight in the knowledge that these wines will survive longer than the majority of those who purchase the vintage. Drinking windows are a pure guesstimate as I believe these wines will ultimately shut down – come back in 2030 and let’s see what’s unfurled with each cuvee…

The cuvees were decanted on the evening of Monday (27 Feb) and sampled Wednesday (1 March) yet, and now standard with Standish wines, they’re inclined not to show their true glory until they’ve spent a substantial time in the glass. Take II occurred on Thursday morning. My tasting notes are an amalgamation of both events and an unfathomable number of sips and swirls…

98-99 Points – Stuart McCloskey “Dare I say it – even more aloof than Lamella. Nonetheless, mesmerising it is. In fact, I know of no other Aussie producer who conjures such thought-provoking aromas. I hate to use the term ‘intellectual’ however, it’s the correct word used in the correct context. Pinning aromatics down to deep aromas of Indian ink, graphite, cold steel, black liquorice and scorched spices. All aromas are wrapped in a salty brine casing – wonderfully marine. The palate treads the same, high-altitude path (you’ve got to work at it). The sweet entry is welcome relief before you are met with the solid structure – very muscular and super-dense. The palate interplays between deep, dark, blue and black pastille fruits – a little concentrated raspberry along with its tell-tale savoury style which is a prominent feature this year. The wine continues to flow harmoniously with crème de mûre, mulberry, violet, lavender, Indian ink. Similarly, to the 2020, there’s a noticeable briny, minéralité tone to all the fruit. Lots of succulence too along with a rich lacquer-feel. This will deliver decades of pleasure. For now, set-aside for at least 8-10 years.”

Dan Standish “From the Laycock Family Vineyard in Greenock planted in 2002 on ironstone gravels and schist over red clay and ironstone bedrock.”