I was invited (by our partners, Accolade wines) to the prestigious Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships (CSWWC Awards Dinner) which took place on Wednesday evening at the historic Merchant Taylors’ Hall. The Hall has been on this same site (Threadneedle Street, London) since 1347.

I arrived for the preview tasting of gold medal winning wines. Before I was able to pour my first sample, I unexpectantly bumped into my tent partner who I had not seen since 2005. We were part of a team attempting to summit Spantik, a 7,000-metre mountain, which stands proud in the Karakoram, a large mountain range spanning the borders of Pakistan, India, and China. Sadly, for him, he broke his leg on our first ascent to camp one and was physically carried out on the backs of village men from the remote and cut off community of Arandu. That must have been one hell of a journey as many crevasses had to be jumped, which is no-tall order with a twelve stone westerner on your back. For me, I had the benefit of my own tent for the next six weeks which was simply wonderful. 

The self-pour table had an impressive line-up from Louis Roederer’s 2008 Cristal (40% Chardonnay 60% Pinot Noir). The ’08 was bottle-aged for 8 years but it needs many more years before it truly offers perfect drinking. Lots of tension and very precise. Taittinger’s 2007 Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs was excellent and clearly a hit with many as the bottle(s) were being continuously emptied. Charles Heidsieck wines were all showing well – The ’04 Blanc de Millénaires richness was particularly impressive. There were many more Champagnes and sparkling wines on show however, I must say that many disappointed…  

We were called through to the magnificent dining hall where the remainder of our dining table met. Ed Carr (Chief Wine Maker House of Arras, Tasmania) and his lovely wife had flown in specially for the event, Laura Jewell MW (Laura heads-up Wine Australia), Sue and Roger Jones from The Harrow at Little Bedwyn (both are great ambassadors for

Australian wines), team Accolade UK and several members of their PR team too…

Our host and founder of CSWWC, Tom Stevenson opened the awards dinner whilst we enjoyed our starter of cream of celeriac and pink lady apple velouté with a slow braised pork beignet and rosemary oil. There was a break between each course, which allowed the time to present the many awards of the evening and to enjoy the countless Champagnes and sparkling wines which were being poured. The main course of braised supreme of pheasant was a brave choice for a banquet of this size as it can easily be overcooked and dry out. A great fondant potato is one which is cooked in a copious amounts of butter and a little stock - golden brown with a melting interior. Sadly, and like the pheasant, a choice which was executed poorly. The cheese course was a success particularly the cloth-wrapped mature cheddar which offered a searing spike of acidity counterbalanced perfectly with the apple chutney.

Dessert of a warm apple tarte tatin was delicious but the thimble sized scoop of vanilla ice cream was rather miserly. I must add that magnums of Cristal which were being poured for guests was drinking beautifully however, the extroverted Piper-Heidsieck ‘Rare’ Champagne served en-magnum (I believe the ’98 vintage) was the standout wine of the evening. 

10.00pm arrived and Tom Stevenson announced the Lifetime Achievement Awards which included the late Thierry Roset, the late Michel Salgues, Thierry Gasco, Jean-Paul Gandon, Herve Deschamps, Richard Geoffroy, Loic Dupont, Francois Dimi and our very own Ed Carr, the only non-Champenois to receive this prodigious award. In fact, Ed is the most decorated and prized winemaker outside of Champagne, which simply goes to prove how great House of Arras wines are.

I must thank Toby of Accolade wines for the kind invitation. A super night and a little more special to see Ed’s acknowledgment.  

Valentines Day, 2001 was Paul’s final service as a sommelier. With few possessions and life savings of thirty-five thousand dollars, Paul left Canada and headed south to California’s Central Coast to start a new life as a winemaker. 2002 marked Paul’s first vintage with a humble six-barrel production. By chance, Robert Parker tasted his 2002 vintage about a year and a half into its making. “The wine was bottled, but I had neither a label nor a name for my winery.” Paul explained to me that he could not afford a trademark hence the simplistic use of his name, which remains on the bottles today.

To me, Paul has a natural gift which and believe it or not, alludes many of the world’s winemakers. Science produces many wines whereas Paul’s wines are made from a unique and rarely seen understanding of each barrel he produces. He listens to his wines during their maturation / life cycle prior to bottling. Paul explained “some wines ask for more time and some have had enough” and “that’s when I know it’s time to leave or remove them from the barrel”.

Paul is not a vineyard owner. Instead, he sources fruit from some of the most blessed spots in California, Pisoni, Larner and Zotovich. He also sources some of the best Syrah from the Hillside Block of Bien Nacido and Pinot Noir from the Gold Coast Vineyard.

I met with Paul on Wednesday and spent some of the most enjoyable hours I have experienced in a very long time. Being in the presence of a great winemaker, a man so humble, is a wonderful experience. I have met and tasted with many winemakers, many of the very best from Bordeaux however, and in countless cases, felt it was more of a show. This is not the case with Paul as he talks with much integrity, often a trait lost by many winemakers.  

The tasting was held in the City, Brigadiers restaurant to be precise. I arrived prompt, 10.00am as I hate to be late. The small side room was simply laid out with two tables. One for Paul’s white wines and one for his reds. Current vintages were available as well as some mature vintages from his own cellar, which would be a fascinating test of time and for me, to see how and if Paul’s style has changed over the years. It was great to see Zalto Burgundy glasses being used however, and if I were to give one smidgen of advice, I would have opted to serve his white wines in Zalto Bordeaux glasses rather than the Burgundy.

First up, the 2015 "le Souvenir" Chardonnay from the Sierra Madre Vineyard. To highlight Paul’s super-talents his 2011 le Souvenir was voted by Robert Parker as one of the top six Chardonnays in the world placing his tiny production of Chardonnay on-par with Burgundy’s Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Montrachet and California’s Marcassin. We quickly sold-out of the ’15 "le Souvenir" therefore, it was nice to reacquaint myself again. Delicate, layered and multidimensional. Tight-knit and a wine which has extraordinary potential. Superb satiny texture and enough structure and acidity to see this through to 2030. Those of you who purchased the ’15. Forget about it for 6-8 years and please invite me over.

I moved onto the current vintage (2016) which was chalk and cheese. Full-bodied, more exotic and densely layered. Minerality, judicious use of French oak and a fine line of acidity keeps everything perfectly in check. Incredible length and I cannot wait to enjoy a full bottle to myself.

The 2016 East of Eden Pisoni Chardonnay from the famed appellation of Santa Lucia Highlands followed. Again, another powerful example with mouth-coating waves of honeyed minerals. The nose was mesmerising and the palate sensational – Well, beyond sublime. It’s one of those rare wines which overwhelms the senses.

The next wine, 2016 Batana Larner Vineyard Malvasia Bianca was nothing short of a shock sensation. In fact, I went back and sampled four times as it was utterly captivating. Paul explained he produces one solitary barrel as it’s a serious labour of love. Everything is done with Paul’s own hands from de-stemming to hand massaging the grapes in the barrel. Utterly brilliant, fun and I am desperately hoping for a tiny allocation. Full tasting note to come if I decide to share a little!

I moved on to the small production (4 barrels) of 2008 Lancelot Pisoni Vineyard Pinot Noir which showed endless layers of the sweet, intensely perfumed red berries which covers the palate from start to finish. Lifted acidity with a little savory herb coming through after time in the glass. There is astonishing focus here and a real shame that I will not able to taste it again.

The incredibly youthful 2009 Solomon Hills Vineyard Pinot Noir was a joy. The palate was animated and flowed with layer upon layer of dark fruits. For all of its obvious delights I noticed a green / slightly unripe finish? I kick myself for not going back and re-sampling. Bloody annoyed with myself.  

The current (2016) Solomon Hills Vineyard Pinot Noir was superb. The nose was heavenly scented with sweet raspberry and rose petal. The palate is immensely concentrated and profound. Utterly superb and must be tasted to be believed.

The 2016 ‘Atticus’ John Sebastiano was the final Pinot Noir, which certainly did not disappoint. More Burgundian with earth / forest floor / fern notes coming to the fore. A wine which certainly needs time and aeration as each swirl of the glass unveiled more and more complexity. Filigree tannins, incredible finesse and a wine I cannot wait to drink in 2028. Simply superb.

To my favourite wine of the tasting, the utterly mesmerising 2008 ‘Larner’ Syrah. This must be quite honestly, one of the most profound Syrahs I have ever sampled. Black raspberry liqueur / framboise, black cherry and crème de cassis dominate the nose. Utterly seamless, not a hair out of place and unashamedly a brilliant Californian Syrah. Ripe tannins support all the fruit and the finish is quite honestly as long as the Pan-American Highway. Something as banal as a number will have to do – 100 points any day of the week. Stunning.

The 2009 Il Padrino Bien Nacido Vineyard Syrah followed and did not disappoint. Thankfully, the smoky / roasted meat characteristic took this closer to Cote-Rotie than the previous. Although concentrated, there’s a real sense of elegance and weightlessness which is admirable. Perfectly polished tannins and a wine which will put a smile on most faces however, my mind kept wondering back to the perfect ’08 Larner. Sorry!

The (2014) Il Padrino followed. A pure, primary sense of Syrah handled beautifully. Elegant, super-long and a wine that all Syrah lovers need to taste. Just a joy for me.

From start to finish, Paul’s wines demonstrate his natural, intuitive ability to create beautiful wines. There’s an honesty and sensitivity which is in play with each varietal he works with. I wonder if Paul’s previous work as a sommelier has shaped his natural understanding of harmony, balance and flavours? For me, and to bring this short article to a close, Paul Lato wines represents some of the best wines coming out of the US today.

My enthusiasm for Paul’s wines is obvious and come highly-recommended. Last years allocation sold-out incredibly quickly and despite an increase in numbers allocated this year, I envisage these will also sell-out swiftly too. I will re-sample each wine once they have landed and will print my full tastings notes. Until then, do not delay, and take my word for it – these are simply some of the best wines produced in the USA today. Mercurial brilliance!

Read our previous Paul Lato Article