 The Vinorium Weekend ReadIssue #153, May 2021  By kind invitation (courtesy of Wine Australia) Magda and I have been invited to attend a global Cabernet Sauvignon comparative tasting next week, which we are thrilled to join. The tasting will explore the rich heritage of Australian Cabernet Sauvignon, and place these wines in a global fine wine context through a blind benchmarking exercise of top international comparisons. The first five wines are international benchmarks and will be revealed during the tasting. We will then explore a number of key Australian Cabernet Sauvignon regions, including Yarra Valley, Eden Valley, Coonawarra and Margaret River. We will discover their regional characteristics, similarities and differences whilst assessing where these wines sit in a global context. The Aussie contenders are serious and include Wynns ‘Black Label’ Coonawarra 2015, Balnaves of Coonawarra ‘The Tally’ 2015, Yarra Yering ‘Dry Red Wine No. 1’ Yarra Valley 2015, Mount Mary ‘Quintet’ Yarra Valley 2015, Cullen Wines ‘Diana Madeline’ Margaret River 2015, Vasse Felix ‘Tom Cullity’ Margaret River 2015 and finally to Henschke; ‘Cyril Henschke’ Eden Valley 2015. I plan to compile a full report which I will share with you all next weekend. Great Cabernet Sauvignon has been the theme of our week too, with the launch of the spectacular 2018 Moss Wood along with their 2019 Chardonnay. The latter was produced in tiny quantities and has sold out. We reached out with our begging bowls however, we came back empty handed. Stocks of the Cabernet were healthier and our original allocation sold out within a few hours. We requested more, which was granted – this also sold out by 6:00pm. Two of my team and I tracked stocks as we enjoyed our evening supper – the importer kindly provided a final increase which we added to our website, but ‘that’s your lot’ to quote Peter… In total, you purchased 347 bottles (along with the 96 bottles of the Chardonnay) by 12:00 noon on Thursday which is a super healthy number. I believe this equates to over 100 separate orders, which translates to a very busy day in the warehouse. Much of the stock arrived today and a little earlier than scheduled. We plan to send your orders on Tuesday for arrival on Wednesday. You should be receiving your DPD tracking details on Tuesday. As I penned in our launch email, my first thought centred around the gracefulness which is haunting in its beauty - it is so rare to find an Australian Cabernet displaying such majestic perfection. Certainly, one of the most profound Cabernet Sauvignons I have sampled from Margaret River. Ray (Jordan) is spot on with his ‘Margaux’ assessment as the similarities to this commune are undeniable. This is the wine to show during Wednesday’s comparative tasting. In a few weeks, expect the team to start hounding you for your feedback as we cannot wait to hear your personal experiences. Those who snapped up the Chardonnay will be over the moon too. Click here if you missed the full launch and before I move on, I must thank you all for your wonderfully generous orders. You are a great bunch to have as customers…    Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 2018100 Points - Sam Kim, The Wine Orbit “Can a Cabernet be any finer, better structured and more engaging? This gloriously composed wine shows crème de cassis, spicy oak, subtle cigar, game and rich floral aromas on the nose, leading to an immensely concentrated palate offering exceptional depth and drive. Offering waves of refined texture and delicious flavours, classically structured by loads of fine tannins, finishing seductively long and gratifying. At its best: 2028 to 2058.” Sam Kim is based in New Zealand, although his reach is truly global. He has been judging wine for the last 20 years at various wine competitions and writing for several magazines, including the New Zealand International Wine Show, The Spiegelau International Wine Competition, The Air New Zealand Wine Awards, The New World Wine Awards, Marlborough Wine Show, Decanter Asia Wine Awards, Decanter Magazine and Cuisine Magazine. Sam has since created his own website called The Wine Orbit, where he posts his latest reviews and articles. 99 Points - Ray Jordan “This is getting just ridiculous. From the time the heavyweights of WA wine started to reveal their wines from the 2018 vintage, it has been a cavalcade of one great wine after another… Now, I have another problem, albeit it a good one. Moss Wood have just released their 2018 cabernet sauvignon. And, oh, here’s a shock, it is without doubt one of their greatest – dare I suggest, it might be their greatest. Read on for that pronouncement. Winemaker Keith Mugford reckons that 2018 was just about perfect. “If you couldn’t make a decent wine from this vintage, you only have yourself to blame,” he said. In some ways, the 2018 is the style of Moss Wood that caused slightly negative comments on the earliest Moss Woods, suggesting the wines were nice but wouldn’t last. Well, weren’t they seriously off the mark? You see, Moss Wood is subtle, refined, understated and almost pretty. The 2018 is so exquisitely perfumed, almost in the vein of a Margaux, and beautifully poised and refined with an effortless length and power all expressed with that typical Moss Wood polish. After sipping my Moss Wood tasting bottle, I took it with me to try with friends later. And it was spectacular, even better on the second day. I reckon if it were possible, I would be enjoying it even more in 40-years time. It is classic Moss Wood that ranks with their best. Is it their best? Yes. As I suspected in anticipation, a great wine from a great vintage. This is a glorious statement from one of the great estates in Margaret River. Classical medium weight in that understated Moss Wood way. Perfectly integrated oak and fine, chalky tannins for support. Leafy cabernet notes on the nose with a touch of light bay leaf and brick dust. The minerally edge to the palate holds the line through to the very long finish. The length on the palate is extraordinary. Best drinking: now till 2050.”" 99-100 Points - Stuart McCloskey "As pure as a young bouquet can be – Astonishing. This is one of the hardest tasting notes I have written as my mind is going ten-to-the-dozen with excitement, but I am conscious that I must slow down and communicate my experience which is super difficult as I am sure my descriptions will totally fail to capture what is in my glass. Why? Save for 2010 Châteaux Ausone, Margaux and Vieux Château Certan (sampled at their respective Châteaux during the 2010 En-Primeur tasting), this is one of the most moving young wines I have ever tasted. Immediately, I am drawn to the palate feel which is sensual and seductive, but and an important point, beguiling in its gracefulness. I adore the freshness, the purity. So, effortless in its grace. Perfectly ripe, polished and chiselled into a great masterpiece. The bouquet reveals dark, brooding berries, fresh mint, liquorice, lavender with the faintest touch of lead pencil – the entire experience feels fresh and cooling. The flavour profile follows a similar line with the fruit marrying beautifully with the fine-boned structure and filigree, silky tannins. Again, everything feels so pure. I have been thinking non-stop about this wine for 24 hours (sampled over two days). I worry that I am not doing it justice - It’s that good. Clearly, there is something wondrous on display – The haunting grace of this wine is something very special indeed. I am happy to enjoy this wine now and every year from 2021 to 2041. Blend: 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot and 4% Cabernet Franc. Decanted for 6 hours. Served using Zalto Bordeaux glassware." 99-100 Points - Magdalena Sienkiewicz "Immediately, you can sense that you are in the presence of something very special. It’s beguiling perfume must be one of the most beautiful I have ever experienced. I am unsure whether describing individual notes and aromas would do it justice, as this wine is all about perfect harmony. Everything feels effortless, which makes this wine even more astonishing. I’m speechless and therefore, please excuse a short note. It’s the sort of wine that simply must be experienced. A truly magnificent wine today, it will be a real privilege and joy to watch its evolution over many years. Sampled using Zalto Bordeaux glassware over two days." **Available for delivery from Wednesday 12th May** £60.50 per bottle  I must also thank those of you who took the time and effort to complete our online questionnaire which we found fascinating. We plan to divulge much of the data in the next few weeks. There’s plenty of time to add your two-penneth – The more feedback the better in our books. Here is the quick link to the survey. Demand and enquiries for Zalto remain high – This is an update directly from Zalto’s export department “There are no significant improvements. As mentioned, it is not the restrictions only rather than we suffer quarantine cases all the time among the blowers who have direct contact among each other. As well we have also one half of the technical capacity due to a necessary reconstruction of one of the furnaces. This should be ready in the next weeks. Hence, then we have all the blowers in production (and no contact persons who have to stay at home for 14 days) we then have all the capacity like before but still have to work on the pending orders of a volume of recent 4 months. As mentioned we have lost more than 4 months of production capacity due to complete lockdown (last year) and quarantine of blowers and still growing demand so why we have sold all reserve stock.” We hope to see our order during July… As ever, we will keep you posted. On the Brexit front - I have been watching the French fishing vessels protesting their British counterparts off the small Channel Island of Jersey. I relate to the frustration which Brexit has caused however, and from a wine merchant in the UK attempting to send wine to our customers in France – they cannot have it both ways. The French have made it almost impossible to send wines to our private clients.. Give and take is the order (and it’s the only way Brexit is going to work, he says sheepishly). I believe Shontelle has contacted all our EU friends and customers who have orders being stored in the UK. Over 60% have reluctantly cancelled their orders which we respect – full refunds have been processed. We are starting to return previously sold out stocks to our website (it’s worth having a rummage around for a few of your old favourites). The 2019 Fire Gully was part allocated to customers wishing to purchase. The remainder of this stock is now ‘live’ on our website. In all honesty, and at the current rate, I do not believe we will be able to offer a reasonably priced and ‘uninsured’ delivery service until next year. I do hope I am wrong however, I have seen no progress. I blinked and our samples desk is completely packed with new vintages / wines from existing producers (the new ‘Hexham’ wines have arrived) and the complete vintage update from Coonawarra producer, Rymill. We have lots of samples arriving (or recently arrived) from new producers including Brand & Son which look fabulous – their Night Fall wines look very smart indeed (check their website https://nightfallwines.com.au/). There are lots more to mention including one of Australia’s ‘big owners’ who is shipping a raft of samples next week. I must say the group of wineries under his ownership are mightily impressive. Nonetheless, the proof is in the pudding… Not long to wait for the 2019 Standish collection which is set to arrive in the UK this Sunday. We hope to be taking physical possession week commencing the 17th May. As ever, we will provide exact delivery dates and communicate appropriately. I will now bow out gracefully and wish you all a fabulous weekend (19 degrees on Sunday!) Keep safe, well and I look forward to seeing you all next week, Stu   John's Blend; One of the very first Australian wines I purchased.John’s Blend represents one of the very first Australian wines I purchased (some 28 years back) and remains close to my heart. Handcrafted since 1974 by John Glaetzer, who and in my humble opinion, is one of the dozen greatest winemakers in Australia and one who prefers not to deal with the media and shies away from the camera. Few winemakers have experienced his continuing success and awards, resulting in winning an unrivalled four of the prestigious Jimmy Watson Trophies for Australia’s top red wine in 1974, 1975, 1976, and 1999. As well as winning eleven Montgomery Trophies for the finest red wines at the Royal Adelaide Wine Show, to name just a few… John’s Blend continues the tradition that John established with Wolf Blass in 1974 - great red wines, full of soft, succulent fruit, matured in the finest oak. For me, the secret of John’s Blend and Margarete’s Shiraz is their constant pursuit of excellence in every aspect of production. Small batches of the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from the rich alluvial soils of Langhorne Creek and Shiraz from both Langhorne Creek and McLaren Vale are crushed, fermented, pressed and blended into oak hogsheads for maturation. A select, super premium label with limited production, John’s Blend is one of Australia’s greatest, albeit modestly priced. In May 2019, following lots of arm twisting and pleading emails, Margarete Glaetzer finally agreed to send a small allocation to the UK. Quantities were, as I expected, small with less than one hundred bottles of each of wine available for sale. Consequently, and given the high demand, they did not last long. Finally, and after a two year pause, our second shipment has arrived – There is no rushing the Glaetzers (Nick Glaetzer is the same)! I also fear we will experience a similar delay with order three as the 2016s were sold in Australia only and the 2017 was written off due to Mother Nature. The next vintage of Margarete’s Shiraz will be the 2019 and the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon… We may see these at some point during 2022 or 2023. Our relationship has blossomed as have our allocations, which have risen to 600 bottles of each, new wine. We have split the stock 50/50 with availability (duty paid) by the bottle and (under bond) by the case which will please those wishing to sit on a case for a decade or so… We first sampled the pair in early February which were showing beautifully – we sat on a second set for the past three months as the R&R will have done them the world of good. Today (Thursday) we re-sampled, as we do like to see how a wine changes over 24-hours (particularly those which are built for the cellar). In short, they were both magnificent which our tasting notes affirm… I hope you enjoy them as much as we do – Cheers, Stu Weekend SpecialOffer closes 9:00am Tuesday 11 May John's Blend Margarete's Shiraz 201898 Points - Stuart McCloskey "Extraordinarily fragrant with dark, sweet blueberries, mulberry, graphite and sweet spices – a little peppery red fruit too. Incredibly fresh on the nose. The palate delivers freshness and elegance by the bucket load. The mineral soaked fruit provides a rich, velvety depth that fills every facet of your palate without being too big. The tannins are fine grained. Effortless concentration and winemaking – I adore the ‘cool’ feel to the wine. Who said John’s Blend is ‘old school’? This is a very sophisticated wine with great depth and breadth. The finish is super long and full of richly spiced red and black fruits. Beautifully made with everything being confined by freshness. Exemplary. Drinking window: 2021 (decanted for 3-4 hours) through to 2040. Served using Zalto Bordeaux glassware." 98 Points - Magdalena Sienkiewicz "I sampled this wine over 2 days, coming back to the decanter regularly, even just for a sniff. The perfume develops beautifully and there is something new to discover every hour. Over time, I could pick up the abundance of fruit ranging from red to blue and black, as well as cranberry juice, plums, ink and sweet spices. There is a wonderfully elegant floral lift which I love, akin to burying your nose in a bunch of violets. The palate simply sings! It is textural bliss, so effortless and perfectly composed. This is an incredibly distinctive, smart, modern age Shiraz and its unique style and charisma certainly sets it apart. A stunning experience today, it will continue to develop for 15-20+ years (in the right conditions). Sampled using Zalto Bordeaux glassware over 2 days." **Available for delivery from Thursday 20th May** Was £31.50 per bottle Now £28.95 per bottle Was £144.10 per case of 6 IB Now £131.35 per case of 6 IB   John's Blend Cabernet Sauvignon 2015"Stylistically, fans of the 2005 Robertson of Clare Max V will absolutely adore this wine." 97 Points - Stuart McCloskey "Gosh, this is a serious, evolved Cabernet which comes across older than its physical years. The colour has a dark core running out to brick orange. Contrary to my Shiraz statement concerning ‘old school’ – Well, this is old school but that is far from a negative observation. The oak bounds across the surface with some punch however, the sheer intensity of the fruit and liquorice provides balance. I have been sampling over two days and find day two more satisfying – the bouquet has evolved beautifully with chocolate, camphor, tea leaves, graphite, cigar box, cold steel, liquorice and blood orange dominating. Like the Shiraz, there is obvious freshness which I believe is necessary. The palate mirrors the nose – perhaps a touch more cedar. There’s admirable density and structure – rather muscular and not dissimilar to a Pauillac from Bordeaux. There’s freshness and energy all the way through to the pencil lead finish… Stylistically, fans of the 2005 Robertson of Clare Max V (and there are lots of you), will absolutely adore this wine. The similarities are striking. Drink now to 2030. Decant for 3-6 hours. Served using Zalto Bordeaux glassware." 97 Points - Magdalena Sienkiewicz "2015 Cabernet Sauvignon is showing great class and a well-developed character. The perfume is brimming with ripe plums, iodine, dried cranberries and sweet raisins wrapped in aromas of scorched earth and dusty oak. The palate follows suit with a lovely touch of soy lingering from the start to the endless finish. Great structure which doesn’t overpower despite its confidence and abundance of rich notes. In contrast to the Shiraz, this is a very classical expression of Aussie Cabernet which will offer a fabulous experience especially to those favouring developed, maturing styles. Sampled using Zalto Bordeaux glassware over two days." **Available for delivery from Thursday 20th May** Was £31.50 per bottle Now £28.95 per bottle Was £144.10 per case of 6 IB Now £131.35 per case of 6 IB  A short question & answer sitting with John Glaetzer. We warned you - He’s a man of few words… The first vintage of John’s Blend was in 1974. Has the winemaking changed much since that first vintage?No major changes since 1974. Last week we tried the 1979 and 1984 vintages of John’s Blend Cabernet Sauvignon and both were magnificent!! Can you tell us about Langhorne Creek? What is it about the region that makes the fruit there so special?Langhorne Creek fruit was used in the original Wolf Blass reds from vintage 1966 until this day. The area is recognised as very consistent with classic rich eucalypt / chocolate characters. The Glaetzer name is part of the very fabric of Australian wine with Ben being one of Barossa’s great names and another of our exclusive producers, Nick of Glaetzer-Dixon producing some of Tasmania’s finest wines. Why is it that wine runs so deep through the Glaetzer family's veins?I have an identical twin brother – Colin, the founder of Glaetzer Wines in 1996. He has three sons, Sam who was my assistant at Wolf Blass Wines and is now chief winemaker at Constellation Wines, USA. Ben and Nick - you know their history. Myself, I have two wonderful daughters (not winemakers) but wine lovers. Our history dates back to early Barossa Valley (grandparents) and with our parents born in the famous Clare Valley but really no one was involved or interested in winemaking until I won a scholarship at Roseworthy College and Colin followed. Do you all get together for family occasions? If so, whose wine is served at the table?Many years ago the local ABC News channel produced a short programme of the Glaetzer winemaking family. At the time Sam was my assistant winemaker. During the close of the programme the commentator asked Sam “who makes the best wine – your father or uncle?”Sam’s clever response – “It depends whom I am drinking with at the time!!” Do you source grapes from the same vineyards each vintage or does it vary from year to year? Can you tell us anything about the vineyards the fruit is selected from?Grapes were originally sourced from Bill Potts’Earlyday Vineyard. The last few decades from Bill Potts’ Pasquin vineyards (80 acres of joint venture between Bill Potts and myself) and Teangi vineyard (Ben Potts – son of Bill). Generally 50% from Pasquin vineyards (25 years of age) and 50% from Bill and Ben Potts – some of which was planted in the mid 1960s. It took 20 years for you to add to the range. What prompted the decision to start producing Margarete’s Shiraz? Other than the varieties, can you tell us a little about how the wines differ in style and complement each other as a pair?As the winemaker for Wolf Blass Wines for many years the volume I produced for John’s Blend was restricted. However my wife Margarete, was continually harassed with lack of supply for many overseas customers. Both our Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz are rich and full bodied. John’s Blend is one of Australia’s most iconic wines produced by an iconic winemaker and has remained consistent to its style since the very beginning. How do you feel John’s Blend compares to many of Australia’s modern wines?I am certainly not biased, however I feel some of the new modern wine styles may have lost their way. Our John’s Blend reds are certainly traditional; classic, rich, full bodied with balanced oak flavours in harmony and most important, eminently drinkable. Did you begin with a clear idea of the wine you wanted to create or was there some experimentation?I was brought up with the famous Wolf Blass, his winemaking style was revolutionary in Australia at the time and for me no experimentation was required. It would be hard to believe that any lover of great Australian wine wouldn’t have heard of John’s Blend or even the Glaetzer name but if there was, what would you tell them about your wines that would make them know how special they are?1. The volumes produced are extremely limited. 2. My record of awards as winemaker at Wolf Blass Wines (excess of 3,000 medals), including trophies, gold and silver. Together with the famous Langhorne Creek region certainly shows how special John’s Blend Cabernet Sauvignon and Margarete’s Shiraz are. Many people feel that blending is simply bringing together different grape varieties but Australia has become famous for multi vineyard or even multi regional blends. With single vineyard wine becoming somewhat of a modern-day niche, can you tell us how important the blending aspect is to your wines? Is it art or science?One of the great things that Wolf Blass taught me from day one. From Wolf – “John if you produce a blend from two or more components that blend must be superior to each and all of the parts.” Of course before a blend was put together – many, many trial blends would be conducted. Regarding “single vineyard wines,” they are already a blend of two or more bunches, two or more vines, etc. All of our John’s Blend wines are normally blended “in our minds” in the vineyard. The complex flavours at this early stage generally will follow through to the final blend, so yes – blending is an art – from grape grower Bill Potts, to winemaking, to bottling. What is life like now? Are you both still involved or have you finally found some time to relax?Life now – after retiring from Fosters (the owners of Wolf Blass Wines) in 2004, I really haven’t had time to even scratch myself! I am fully committed to winemaking – John’s Blend, Gipsie Jack, consulting to many companies and travelling, promoting my own wine and others from the famous Langhorne Creek vineyards. I have not enough time to retire.  Team Vinorium have enjoyed a lot this week between them…  Stolpman Vineyards La Cuadrilla Red Wine 201897 Points - Stuart McCloskey “Pete Stolpman’s assessment is spot on; “A model of the ripe yumminess, the heavenly 2018 vintage will go down in history.” The bouquet offers an impressive concoction of soused cherry and sweet spices along with hypnotic potpourri, vanilla and liquorice. I love the aromatic depth. The palate is expansive and weightier compared to the Para Maria. Layer upon layer unfold with ripe blue and black fruits – there’s a plumpness and sheen to the fruit with lavender, sweet spices and a little menthol contrasting beautifully. The tannins are silky smooth. Perfectly pure and for twenty-quid, this will leave you weak at the knees. Excellent. Drink now to 2025. Served using Zalto Bordeaux glassware. 70% Syrah, 15% Sangiovese, 15% Grenache.” £21.50 per bottle  Stolpman Vineyards Estate Grown Syrah 201797++ - 98 Points - Stuart McCloskey “Pete describes this wonderful wine as ‘screamingly delicious’ and yet again, this is a perfect summary. What a wine (it’s incredibly addictive) – the bouquet draws you into a heady mix of super-ripe blueberry compote, the sweetest and most heavenly spray from potpourri, the spicing is sweet and exotic. I love the minerality and sea kelp (a strong sense of marine if you swirl and leave for 30 seconds before inhaling). Hypnotic, in a word and worthy of 100 points. The palate is just a joy with mineral-laced blueberry, red cherry compote and unmistakable floral pastille followed by swathes of sweet spices. Velvety in texture and super-fresh. I implore all lovers of high quality Aussie Shiraz to try this – I bet £100 (donated to charity) that we will not receive one negative review. I am stunned. 98% Syrah 2% Viognier. Decanted for two hours and served using Zalto Bordeaux glassware.” £25.95 per bottle   Topper's Mountain Wild Ferment Tempranillo 201396++ 97 Points - Stuart McCloskey “Tempranillo is a temperamental beauty which places so many demands on the winemaker - from warmth and sun for perfect ripeness as well as cooling evenings to retain freshness. AKA, perfect conditions. Topper’s sits 900 metres above sea level which aids the deliverance of daytime warmth and cooling air of the night time. The nose is fully mature and alluring with saddle leather, tobacco, cedar, rose hip, blood orange and dark cherry cola. The palate texture is perfecto – crushed velvet with ribbons of sweet and sour cherry, cola, smoke and sweet spice. The tannins are svelte and the acidity adds a judicious slap of freshness. There is much to like - superb energy and a very long, sappy finish. We sampled in Zalto’s Bordeaux and Universal glassware with the latter being our preference. It’s in its prime, but will keep for a few years longer (although I really don’t see the point personally).” £22.95 per bottle   Shadowfax Minnow Roussanne 201996 Points – Stuart McCloskey “If there were a wine that screams of summer, this is it. The bouquet is a heavy profusion of sun-drenched, baked apricots, fresh vanilla pod, creamy fresh yoghurt and lemon oil. Aromatically perfect! The palate is riveting and offers a wonderful sense of energy. This is not a mouth filling viscous illustration. Instead, it’s high toned on the palate, light on its feet – the fruits and acidity are framed perfectly. Touches of baked apricot combines with a little saline character adding an extra layer of complexity. I detect pear after a minute or two – such a long finish. This is sampling much better than the first bottle shipped across the pond. Sadly, I have made a huge mistake as I should have purchased much more. Superb value. Drink now to 2025. Served using Zalto Bordeaux glassware.” £19.95 per bottle  Ghost Rock Zoe Brut
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