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A Taste of Issue: 24 / Sunday 13 May, 2018   Repeatedly I get asked, “How did you get involved in the wine business?” and “Is there one wine, experience or other memory that best expresses the story of why you do what you do?” For me, the answers seem somehow less obvious, or maybe just less important, however, the purpose of this short article is to answer those questions… Wine beginnings & my love affair with wine.My childhood chalice was never filled with wine and we were complete strangers until I reached my late teens. I do vividly recall ordering, on many occasions, a bottle or two of the German colossus ‘Black Tower’. This became my fail-safe choice until I finally grew up and, more importantly, found a partner who was appalled by my vinous tastes! The Sotheby’s Guide to Classic Wines, was my first wine book and lit the touch paper that ignited my passion for wine. It was at the tender age of eighteen, whilst drinking a bottle of 1976 Penfolds Grange (purchased for less than £50.00), procured from the Nobody Inn, Doddiscombsleigh, that I had any epiphany. My olfactory senses were opened and I simply fell in love. Literally, I was stopped in my tracks. Yes, I was incredibly inexperienced, but I could not escape the precision, the profound aromatics that perfumed the air around me. I was too young to pick-out specific characteristics, but I will always remember the wines physical presence on my palate that I found most overwhelming. It was sensual, silky and the tannins were seamless. I had never tasted anything quite so extraordinary and, to this day, it remains one of the greatest wines that I have ever tasted – Perhaps the emotional attachment lends me to this decision. I immersed myself completely in learning, collecting, appreciating and most importantly tasting wine. Thankfully, wine became my career in the late 1990s, a blessing as I can honestly declare that I never tire of the subject. My palate has worked incredibly hard over the years and has, at time resented the long hours, purple-stained teeth, excruciating levels of tannins that have played havoc with my entire digestive system. Regardless of those endurance exercises, I am blessed, for more great wines have passed my lips than I would ever have imagined at the beginning of my career. How I Taste My method is terribly simple: I look, take a deep sniff, taste, spit, occasionally dribble, jot down my thoughts, which become more illegible as the years pass, score and move on to the next wine. Wine, as with many fields is subjective, therefore I feel it is extremely important to be honest with oneself. There is absolutely no worth in echoing the exact same sentiment as my peers or the famous wine critics if I see the same wine from a different angle. Some, would say, that I am excruciatingly honest, which I actually take as a compliment. Of course I do not go out of my way to be different but, if it is to the benefit of my clients, then I am not shy in telling them to avoid buying a wine if I personally think it’s tosh. Today, sampling leads to the possibility of purchasing for The Vinorium shelves which is an entirely different kettle of fish. I will often sample with the team as it’s a great way for them to learn however, the real acid test is taking the remaining content home and pouring a glass in the peace and quiet. If the wine doesn’t hit the spot at home, it never appears on our shelves. What qualities do I value in a wine? Personally, I favour wines with elegance, balance and a sense of belonging – ‘terrior’ as we like to call it in the trade. I have a fondness for wine that is produced in the vineyard rather than those stressed, overly extracted ones that are forced out in the winery. I adore crisp acidity, structure, and I have a real weakness for mature wines as they offer so much more: tobacco, lead pencil, truffles, a myriad of exotic fruit, spices, and tannins become seamless. I suppose this is wines evolution after spending 20+ years, locked in a bottle. Do you I have a favourite grape variety? Certainly, one of the most difficult questions to answer and possibly one in which I may appear to be sitting on the fence. In my youth, Shiraz would be the clear winner however, as my palate ages I often find myself edging towards Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, mature Cabernet Sauvignons (or Bordeaux blends). There are few grape varieties that I do not enjoy sampling / drinking but those which are dialled-back a little are more favoured. I would hate to be pigeonholed as one of those old-school Burgundy come Claret fuddy-duddies, which I am far from. I love fruit as long as there’s balance and I like to see the skill of the winemaker coming through. I would certainly opt for a New World Pinot Noir and Chardonnay over Burgundy (any day of the week). I love Bordeaux and have been working in this region for twenty years but the Cabernet Sauvignons coming out of the Margaret River are every bit as good. Riesling – I adore great German Riesling and would challenge anyone who has no appreciation. Sample one of Keller’s Grosse Gewachs wines and expect to be astonished. Simply one of the greatest winemakers on our planet today. Do you have a favourite wine at The Vinorium? Almost impossible to answer as I have an appreciation for every wine we list. After all, I am the buyer and know each wine intimately. Nonetheless, and for the sake of putting myself under pressure, if I had to choose one bottle, I would opt for Paul Lato’s 2015 Pinot Noir 'Atticus'. Regrettably, recently sold-out however, this was the finest Pinot Noir I sampled and purchased during 2017. Thankfully, I have a personal stash at our HQ which I have no intention of sharing! .png) Wine of the Week  Flowstone Queen of the Earth
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